Mark climbing near the bolt on the slick slab, Smi...
Description
Smitty's Wet Dream is reached by following the approach to the Perhaps wall, and then following the wall downhill. Pass Cranial Prophylactic, and continue to the next crack system to the left.
Start up a small slab, heading into a very thin steep dihedral (Lime Line Variation 5.10d). Don't climb the dihedral, instead finger traverse left on a flake/crack. Once on the left face, climb up a short finger crack to a slab with a bolt. Clip this and head slightly right into a thin right facing dihedral. Follow this to the anchors, getting great face holds up higher.
Either rap with one rope (Cranial Prophylactic's anchors), or do CP's second pitch.
Protection
Very small gear and one bolt in the slab. A TR is also possible after climbing Cranial Prophylactic.
Hmm... I see... the route is a thin dihedral, I cruised the arete for most of the way thinking it seemed harder than 5.9 and wondering why there was a 30 foot runout above that bolt. Can't wait to try it again the right way. Good climb none the less!
By Texaswall From: Salt Lake City, UT May 20, 2008
Led Cranial Pro today and found it an easy 5.8 and disappointingly discontinuous and short. Decided to TR Smitty's and was grateful. I'm 99% certain I did Smitty's proper and think it would have been tough to get pro in from the bolt to the steep but easier face below the anchors. Hard 5.9 and hard to protect.
By Tyler King From: Salt Lake, UT Oct 7, 2008 rating: 5.9
I just did this route and it is not difficult to protect. Just be sure to bring your small TCU's and micro's.
Kermits Wall and Perhaps Area
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