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Kermits Wall and Perhaps Area
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Cranial Prophylactic 

5.8

   

FA: Miller and Smith '76
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 160 feet
Views: 723 page views

Submitted By: Peter Gram on Apr 3, 2004


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Peter leading P1 of Cranial Prophylactic


Description 

Cranial Prophylactic is reached by following the approach to the Perhaps wall, and then following the wall downhill. Look for a finger crack with a bolt about 15' up.

Fire up the crack, with a crux at the bolt. After this, the climbing eases and follows a crack system up and slightly left to a 3-bolt anchor. Many people rap from here, one rope rap.

If continuing up (I didn't), the route goes into a right facing dihedral with a pin. It continues up and eventually works left to a topout. Two rope rap or a one rope rap with downclimbing if this second pitch is done.


Protection 

Nuts and small cams for the first pitch.



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Cranial Prophylactic

BETA PHOTO: Cranial Prophylactic

At the crux.

At the crux.

Tim makes good use of the crack as he pulls the crux. No prophylactics required.

Tim makes good use of the crack as he pulls the cr...

I swore I wasn't going to clip that bolt.  Oops.

I swore I wasn't going to clip that bolt. Oops.

The fun move (It helps to be 7 foot tal like Lee).

The fun move (It helps to be 7 foot tal like Lee).

The obligatory layback shot.

The obligatory layback shot.

cold...and it looks better then it is, but...it's still worth doing over and over<br />

cold...and it looks better then it is, but...it's ...


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By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 26, 2004

This is an okay route, kind of spicy in a couple of spots, definitely worth doing if you are up in the area.

By Nathan Fisher
Administrator
Aug 29, 2004
rating: 5.8

A couple of noteworthy moves. Nice finger locks.

By Lee Jensen
Mar 17, 2005
rating: 5.8

The bottom crack is really fun. About 20 feet. Nice 5.8 moves. After that it is a 5.5-6 swing to the anchors that goes up another 40 feet. But still fun and worth doing. Good lead to set up a top rope for the friction routes to the west.

By tenesmus
Jul 16, 2006

There is a second pitch also rated 5.8 but with lesser quality rock, fun exposure and funky moves. The belay at the top is there but thin so be sure you equalize well. Not the standard 5.8 lead but worth doing once if you've done lots of laps on the lower pitch because it gets you more acquainted with the wall in general. Then you can walk around to the anchors of Paranoia Streak for the rappell. You can definitely reach the ground with a 70m rope.

By criscokid
From: PG, Utah
Sep 3, 2007

The start is sporty and the crack can disappoint but I did enjoy the neat little step around move at 2/3 height. You know you are solid on trad if you can crank the start w/o the bolt!