The Coffin is the obvious finger crack that perfectly splits the face on the Coffin Buttress. The gear is great the whole way, and you can sew it up with finger size pieces.
Clip the manky pin left of the crack, then traverse into the crack. Place a small cam, then fire up the beautiful finger crack for 80' to the large roof. From here two options exist. Traverse right (easier) to the anchors, or traverse left to anchors. Going left is highly recommended and adds some more fun climbing to the pitch.
Descent) Rap with one rope back to the base.
Protection
Mostly finger size gear, .5 and .75 camalots are about the right size. Near the top camalots up to #3 can be used. Also a small cam (yellow alien?) is useful to protect the opening.
By John J. Glime From: Salt Lake City, UT Mar 28, 2004
Definitely a fantastic crack... here are a couple of thoughts. You have two options for the start. Traverse in from the left, or climb the plumb line of the crack. Although the plumb line is a tiny bit more difficult, there is better protection with the plumb line. The first ten to fifteen feet are tenuous due to the semi-lack of good protection. You start the climb on a ledge/hillside which could make for an ugly tumble if you fall during those first ten feet. However, when you are standing there you can take a good look and know that after those first moves you are going to immediately come to the great protection mentioned above. This is a great 5.9 route for 5.8 leaders to attempt/climb. As stated, you can sew up this route. If you are gear happy, be sure to save some gear for the top.
By Peter Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT Mar 30, 2004
The direct 5.9 start does look more aesthetic for The Coffin. However, the 5.8 piton start is VERY safe IMHO. After clipping the pin, big foot holds allow an easy traverse right where an excellent small cam can be placed. From here the climb is very protectable and safe.
I would agree that this is a good first 5.9 trad lead. It is pretty soft, probably only 5.8. The gear is bomber and the climbing is not strenuous. Make sure to have some gear left to protect yourself and your seconder when going left under the roof. A #1 camalot works well.
By Peter Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT May 14, 2004
Did this climb again today. A couple of notes on gear. Where I mentioned a possible yellow alien in the description requires a green alien. Better yet use a comparable tcu because it is a narrow pin scar. And above, I recommend bringing mostly finger sized cams (.5 camalot or equivalent and smaller). Anything bigger generally doesn't fit.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Apr 16, 2005 rating: 5.9
The pin on the 5.8 start probably isn't even worth clipping, but you can get a great small TCU in just before it. Definitely use a screamer on the pin if you choose to clip it.
This is my favorite pitch in LCC so far. Beautiful route!
My fave pitch as well! Super classic. I'm pretty sure this is solid 5.9... not old school 5.9 but it makes for an interesting warm-up if you are just breaking into that range of tradThe direct 5.9r start really isn't bad. You can get a piece in pretty low down and it's not as hard as the crux section midway up where it starts getting steep and you have no feet. Of course there is some deck potential so... watch out. .
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Jul 17, 2005 rating: 5.9
A fantastic line that must be repeated and repeated. Going left at the roof is also a must-do. Don't forget to protect your second.
As far as the 5.8 beginning, if you don't have Aliens or similar small camming units, just below the pin takes two nuts (1 brass) fairly well. I equalized the nuts and felt pretty confident on those 2 pieces, and made my moves to the main crack.
I thought this would be something special, but it really wasn't. It has a weird start then the finger locks are funky and off-finger sized. Plus, the approach is fairly long by LCC standards. It looks cool and it's easy, but it's really not what it's built up to be. I will say that it gets more fun towards the top and the traverse. Sorry to rain on this parade, but I would have liked to know ahead of time that there are people out there who aren't enamored by it.
By Dave Budge From: Wasangeles Sep 30, 2005 rating: 5.9
After reading the comments of "Anonymous Coward" I'm a bit surprised. Years ago I took a 5.13 sport climber up the Coffin and he didn't like it either. He tried to use opposing pressure to force his way through the crux, despite getting solid instruction on jamming. Other than that experience, AC's comments are the only negative words I've heard about the route. The Coffin would be a 3 star route if it was in the crack mecca of Yosemite Valley. Whining about the approach maybe tells the real story. Utterly fantastic this route is, don't miss it. Also, the surrounding routes above and to the side of the Coffin are all very good, most in the 3 stars range. One of the best chunks of rock in the Wasatch.
Some folks just don't like a nice granite crack climb....but if you do....this route is a GREAT, MUST DO LCC classic. aproach keeps the lighweights out but is no big deal, or for a more varied outing do Cresent/final link to the Coffin...or better yet, lead the coffin and the second pitch corner all as one! great stuff!
First of all, I wasn't whining about the approach, I just said it's long by LCC standards, which is true. Secondly, I know how to finger jam. Thirdly, you violated the only guideline to this site: don't be a jerk.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Oct 26, 2005 rating: 5.9
There is a second pitch, that I would not recommend. Climb the left-facing crack/seam left of the roof. Flaky rock, and two trees in the way. Also the protection isn't the greatest. There is a fun (too short) lieback section, then you turn the corner to some super easy, super flaky rock, a small varnished face and then, a set of anchors.
Do the right side 2nd pitch variation!!! "Long approach by LCC standards??" Huh??Hey anonymous coward.... go climb the Sail, Wheels on Fire, or Memorial Day Buttress, or heck, THE PAWN!!The Coffin does NOT have a long approach! Enjoy yourself clipping bolts at the Slips or Challenge Buttress.
This was an awsome route and should not be missed by the 5-9 leader. The 5-9 beginning is really fun and can acutally be protected really well with a blue metolis. The rest of the route has bomber pro. I did not go under the roof but it looked fun, going right is also really cool. The apporach is really not that long.
By Shaun Greene From: www.UtahShaun.com Oct 22, 2007
The Second pitch right side variation is a very worthwile climb with some really cool moves and great protection. Definately do this second pitch. Features really cool dihedral climbing with a variety of techniques used. Rock is very good on the right side.
The direct 5.9 start takes small nuts placed from good stances and is really safe. There's a fixed tricam on the left 5.8 start, it looks pretty old and manky now. Higher up large nuts and a couple of .5 and .75 will keep thing safe. #1 and #2 protect the top and the traverse to the right anchor for your second. It's up there with Sasquatch as a contender for best moderate finger crack in Little, although the coffin is a bit wider with the occasional hand jam thrown in for good measure.
Coffin Buttress
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