The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress.
Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.
Here I stand just above the crack portion of the d...
Description
This is a superb way to start Schoolroom, but it is much harder than anything else on that route. Climb the steep gorgeous finger and hand crack about 40' right of the regular Schoolroom start. At the end of the crack, a few spooky moves left on friction gain the regular route. I didn't think this was very R rated, but it wouldn't be fun to fall on the insecure friction moves.
I feel this is a much better variation to Schoolroom. This route wanders enough as it is. I didn't feel that this start was that much harder than the other pitches. Very fun climb!!
This is a Good way to start schoolroom. There is one hard move at the bottom that protects well with a stoper then a nice slab move that is not hard up higher. If I do this variation I set up a belay about 15 feet past the top of the big chimney and let my second have the nice fun finger crack on the second pitch.
This variation seemed preferable to the original, perambulatory 5.6 line. It is a little spooky to traverse out onto the face with your last piece of pro below your feet, but two moves gets you to a bomber, dinner plate sized chicken head. After gaining that chicken head, it looked like you could place a small cam into a crack. I'm guessing it would be maybe 15 feet between pieces? From there, you are into the gully and back on Schoolroom.
By Ron Olsen From: Boulder, CO Oct 19, 2004 rating: 5.7
The lower crack is well protected with a spot of 5.7, and the slab is insecure 5.7 that is definitely R rated. Your last pro is well below your feet and a fall would be ugly. After a few thin moves, you can get a good small cam in a finger-sized crack before rejoining the regular Schoolroom route.
Pro doesn't have to be way below your feet. There is a great nut or pink tricam righ in the block you stand on before the R moves, just runner it long, and slab away! Great thought provovking move. Seen this stymie hard sport climbers! trust those feet it's LCC!
Rock seemed way solid last year or earlier this year. I didn't question the piece at all. I placed a small nut way on the right side of the crack at your feet.
I don't think it's R. The gear is just a few feet below your feet when you make the slab traverse. Some creative use of the big flat chickenhead eliminated a slab move or two for me. This is a much better way to start schoolroom than the pointless block scramble and downclimb/traverse of schoolroom.
The R is for the slab traverse to gain the arcing crack left of the 1st pitch. Note this is the best way to string the first few pitches of school room together. You can link pitches 1-3 this way. making your time up on the school room much shorter if time is your enemy.
By Judson Widner From: Park City, Ut. May 26, 2009 rating: 5.7 R
I agree..start Schoolroom here, and the R slab move is a bit heady but not too trivial or difficult.
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