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Scruffy Band
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Scruffy Band 

WI3

   

FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, Ice
Consensus: WI3 [details]
Season: Dead of winter is best
Views: 412 page views

Submitted By: Jeff B on Jan 1, 2002


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Scruffy Band


Description 

Nice route on the granite rocks of Little Cottonwood Canyon. Channel 4 News did a story on ice climbing here in 2001 with us.


Protection 

Two pitches, first pitch is very easy, WI 2-3. Second pitch ends with a 15 foot pillar. Descent is best rappelling off trees.


Toprope Protection 

Half way up the route there are pitons in the rock for toproping.



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By Nick Storm
From: Lander, WY
Jan 18, 2007

Thanks for the info. I am going to assume that one 60m rope can safely get from tree to tree on the rappel...is this true? Happy climbing.

By Brian in SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 16, 2008

I've done it from the lower tree standard rappel (upper tree is the anchor for the final top out, kind of on the left side of the upper tier) with a single 70 meter rope, and it think we used most all of it.

We rappelled from the upper tree last night with 2 70's, and, seemed like we had 40 or so feet of rope left over (meaning the upper tree rap would eat up all of two 60m ropes, methinks). The lower tree is really only around 50 or so feet below the upper tree. I noticed a single bolt anchor with a sling on it below the huge roof that you'd rappel from the lower tree, so, that "might" be an option with a single 60. Seems like most of the tree-ish stuff you rappel by is bushy, and, not as substantial for a rap anchor. Looking at a picture I have of the route, I don't see any big enough trees for a decent anchor. A single 60 "might" put you atop that snowy ramp which "might" be ok to down climb (its icy right now, but, might be thin).

Safer would be a pair of ropes...

By bsmoot
Jan 18, 2008

You can also hike off to the East if you don't want to rap.

By Stymingersfink
Feb 26, 2008

two 60m ropes will get you all the to the ground from either tree. a single 70M rope will get you to the lower ramp from the lower tree, with a short (20') downclimb over WI2+ ice to reach the ground. a 70M rope from the upper tree will barely get you to the lower ramp, with about a 25' downclimb.