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Black Peeler Buttress
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Black Peeler Buttress

Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Oct 16, 2004
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard
Latitude: 40.5736  Longitude: -111.7488 
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On private land. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

You wake up one morning, say this morning. It is going to be a fine, warm, Saturday in October as approaching storms threaten a major change. You want to climb somewhere away from the crowds that you feel may swarm the canyons today. Come to the Black Peeler. From the top of my routes, I could see no less than 30 cars parked at the Gate. However, there were just my party and one other on the entire Peeler Buttress.

The definitive Ruckman guide divides the Peeler Buttress into a South Face and the southeast-facing Peeler Face. This division is used here for convenience and familiarity.


Getting There 

Park approximately 1.85 miles up canyon at a white power plant (the Pentapitch Area parking), cross the road, and hike west on the dirt road with a gate and "Absolutely No Trespassing" signs.

If this makes you nervous, skirt the signs by 50 feet and bushwhack up to the road.

Follow the dirt road to the point where it turns east at an eroded switchback and continue west on foot trails. These trails will get you to the routes in 15 minutes or so.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Black Peeler Buttress:
Peeler Direct   A2     Aid, 1 pitch, 100 feet, Grade II   Peeler Face (Southeast and ...
Western Grebe   5.8 R     Trad, 4 pitches, 460 feet   South Face
Western Grebe (Mantel variation)   5.9+     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   South Face
Fool's Paradise   5.10     Trad, Sport   South Face
Dark of the Moon   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet   South Face
The Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route   5.12c     Trad, 4 pitches, 300 feet   Peeler Face (Southeast and ...
Browse More Classics in Black Peeler Buttress

Featured Route For Black Peeler Buttress
Rick leading the second pitch. Photo courtesy of Andrew Burr.

The Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route 5.12c  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Peeler Face (Southeast and ...
The Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route, .12c, 4 pitches. First Ascent: Chris Thomas, Rick Vance, and Jess Taverna, June, 2007The Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route was named in honor of our good friends Brian Postlethwait and Andre Callari, who were killed while climbing in the Ruth Gorge of Alaska in May, 2007. Brian and Andre were two of the most badass climbers, skiers/snowboarders, pilots, adventurers, husbands, brothers, sons and friends that ever lived,...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


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By Allen Sanderson
Jun 25, 2009

It should be noted that the Black Peeler Buttress and environs is on land owned by Perpetual Storage. The same respected for the property should be given by climbers as the adjacent private land (ie. the Gate Buttress and the LDS Church).