What an awesome, aesthetic crag! I first hiked up to climb the Fin in 1985, wearing my 2nd-hand Fire's. After topping out, I couldn't even fathom that Lowe and McQarrie ascended this in hob-nails back in 1965. Although on private property (which creates a long approach) it is well worth the half-day outing to experience some of the most beautiful granite LCC has to offer. The lines to the top are exposed, run-out, and challenging, the easiest of which is 5.10b/c, but the competent leader will find some truly inspiring climbing. Please respect the landowner's wishes and approach from far up-canyon (see directions), and be extra carefull not to send rocks hurtling downward towards the road and parking area below.
Getting There
The falcon guide has a good description (but you'll likely get lost in the bushwhacking like everyone else) so I'll paraphrase it here. Park 0.9 miles up canyon from teh neon sign. The Fin is directly east of the LDS Church archives road. This road is strictly off-limits, so bushwhack towards a gully that descends just west of the Fin. Thrash towards the point where this gully meets the parking area (staying out of the parking area of course), and it is here that you join an actual trail. Hike up this gully until you reach a gravelly flat spot just past hte second of three stands of large Box Elder trees (approximately 100 feet up from an enormous boulder. Behind the flat spot is a large, low-angled corner. Scramble up the corner about ten feet, then traverse up and right, passing mahogany trees to the ridge. Turn the ridge and walk up slabs for about 50 feet until a traverse through some small oak brush brings you to the bottom of another set of slabs. On the right side of these slabs, a brush-filled corner is topped by an old, gnarled pine tree. Scramble up to this corner on knobs, then follow the corner up to the base of the climbs. Stepping out of the corner into the brush on the left is unpleasant, but much easier.
The crux of this fantastic route will be quickly discovered at the end of the first pitch. Slab climbing technique will be the only key to this route. Like the Ruckmans mention in their guidebook, one can not imagine doing this back in the day in hiking boots. Hardmen from Yosemite would try themselves on this route when traveling to or through Salt Lake City. To quote Wasatch Climbing North "One hopes this route will remain an inspiration for...[more]
Awesome climbing on the Fin! If you're needing some extra adventure, you can climb the ridge directly to the base of the climbs in about 3 or so pitches.
Also a nice link-up is first pitch of Fin Arete and then work left from there to do the 2nd pitch of Dark Horse with its stellar arete climbing!! If you have time, you can wrap from there to the base of the Dorsal and do the first pitch on TR if you're a chicken S#it like me!
The third pitch of the Dorsal is one of the best 5.8 pitches anywhere!
The Fin
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