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Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New |
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 Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!
DescriptionThis buttress is the biggest chunk of rock in the canyon, and the only place in LCC where you can link 10 or 11 pitches of quality crack, slab, and face climbing and choose between ratings from 5.7 to 5.12 to reach the summit. The view from the top of the Thumb is superb and well worth the all day outing. "S-Crack" defines Thumb climbing, and with the "S-Direct" variation proves that the boys (including the Lowes and former mayor Ted) had their S*** together way back in the 60's when they developed this rock. Getting TherePark at the Gate Buttress. Then, prepare for a bit of a slog. Follow a series of paths that head left from the Gate Boulders. I've done this a dozen times or more and I don't think I get the same trail twice. Either way, head west until you get to the huge talus field. Head west across, and simultaneously up the talus hill until you reach the base of the Waterfront buttress. This is the steep, dark-stained block above the dense scrub oak forest. From here, traverse west along the base of the buttress (harder than it sounds) until you reach an area where you are tempted to scramble up, out of the trees. Don't do it! Down hike just a bit to continue west and then move back uphill to the base of the buttress, and shortly you'll emerge out of the forest and you'll be on the trail at the base of the Plumbline wall (a great warm-up climb is the Plumbline 5.10a). Stash your packs in this area, as this is where you'll end up on the descent. From here, traverse west and up for about 200 feet and you'll be standing at the base of the Thumb routes. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Thumb Area:
The Summit Pitch 5.5 Trad, 45 feet
The Standard Thumb 5.7 Trad, 11 pitches, Grade III
Indecent Exposure Variation 5.7 Trad, 2 pitches
S-Direct 5.9+ R Trad, 7 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III
Spring Fever 5.10a/b Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III
S-Crack 5.12a Trad, 4 pitches, 350 feet, Grade III
Featured Route For The Thumb Area
 Climb S-Crack, or Standard Thumb/Indecent Exposure the Lunch Ledge. S-Direct tackles the smooth slab left of the Standard Thumb "Trough" pitch. Four pitches above Lunch Ledge to unrope, and hike over the back, or rappel the route. I did this route about 8 years ago, and remember it as serious...but not crazy runout. Something has changed in 8 years, however. OK, I'll admit to gaining a few...ok, a dozen...OK, TWENTY!...pounds since my first ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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