The land is owned by the LDS Church please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people the land starting at LDS Church vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. This includes, the Fin, Thumb, Green A, Schoolroom, and Gate Buttress. Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors because in part of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quaried and is presently under revegetation. The trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the climber's trail so this area can recover.
BETA PHOTO: Cheetah and surroundings with lines 1) Cheetah w/ ...
Description
The section of the Gate Buttress just to the right of the Dihedrals is the Becky's Wall area. This is the start to some great moderate routes, including the popular Becky's Wall (5.7), and Tarzan (also 5.10a). Tarzan can also be linked up with Tingey's Terror and Tingey's Torture to make one of the longest routes in the area (~11 pitches).
Getting There
Park at the Gate Buttress parking area 1.25 miles up the canyon. Take the trail that passes the Gate Boulder, heading straight north from the road. A good trail climbs up to rock below the Dihedrals area. Follow the trail right a small ways along the base, then scramble up slick 3rd class slabs to a ledge system and the start of the climbs.
Beckey's Wall climbs the prominent right facing dihedral just right of Satan's Corner and left of Tarzan. Pitches 1 and 2 are often combined.P1) Climb up slabby low angle dihedral for a short pitch to get to a set of chain anchors. (5.6)P2) Continue up the dihedral, doing some fun stemming up to a piton. Then climb up the steep dihedral, using flakes on the left face. Finish at a ledge with 3 bolts with chains. (5.7)From here, one option is to...[more]
Ahhh ... nothing quite like a 15-foot 5th class boulder problem, followed by a traverse with consequences -- all disguised as "4th class," in classic LCC understatement. As someone once told me, "in Little Cottonwood, anything less than 5.6 is considered 4th class." Some of the more wary among us might actually choose to protect that scramble and traverse, and even be lowered by our bolder partners.
This is a letter from Fred recently about the FA of Beckey's Wall. I thought it deserved to be saved and pasted here. The guy has unlimited energy, no question about that. This does clear up any of the previous dispute about fixed gear originally placed on this climb. I think it is great for the record:
HELLO YES I DID THE ROUTE WITH ROSLYN STEWART THE GUIDEBOOK PEOPLE SURE ARE SLOW GETTING IT CHANGED I KNOW ERIC B TOLD THEM MORE THAN ONCE WE DID NOT PLACE A BOLT ANYWHERE LIKELY WE RAPPPED FROM PITONS OR TREES ? MY GUESS IS THAT WE DID IT IN 2 PITCHES I HAVE A SHOT ON THE CLIMB, LOOKING DOWN A POOR BUT VISIBLE PHOTO ACROSS THE CANYON YES KOR AND I DID SOMETHING I THHINK THE BOOK PROB HAS IT RIGHT
THINKING OF MAYBE GOING ARAPOLES IN OCTOBER
------------------------ LET ME KNOW IF YOU KNOW THE G-BOOK AUTHOR, GIVE HIM THE WORD
ps I WONDER WHAT THE UNABOMBER'S E MAIL IS??? I COULD SEND HIM AN E MAIL AND TELL HIM I USED HIS NAME IN CONNECTION WITH A WEIRDO CHEERS BECKEY
By Perin Blanchard Administrator From: Orem, UT Nov 29, 2007
Thanks, James. I took the liberty of putting your comment and the relevant portion of the letter (edited for capitalization and punctuation) in a "History" section under the Beckey's Wall description.
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