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The Egg
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Select Route:
Cracked Egg 
Go Van Gogh 
Groovin' 
Huevos Rancheros 
Jesus or Jeopardy 
Just Say No to Crack 
Leggo My Eggo 
Lowe Blow 
Old Peculier 
Over Easy 
Variety Delight 
Windjammer 

BETA PHOTO: Egg w/o lines

Description 

Mostly bolted, and nicely angled. The granite here has pockets on most of the face. The climbs tend to be long and feel very exposed. Either do a 2-rope rappel or hike off to the west. A very warm area to climb. The highest of the deep winter crags.


Getting There 

Park in the Little Cottonwood lower canyon Park and Ride. Locate the climber's access trail in the lot's northeast corner (directly north of the restroom). Follow this trail east until you are directly below The Egg. Continue on the switchbacks to the base of the routes. Do a small 4th class scramble to gain the routes.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Egg:
Huevos Rancheros   5.7 R     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 150 feet   
Variety Delight   5.7     Trad, 2 pitches, 210 feet   
Groovin'   5.8+     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet   
Lowe Blow   5.9+     Trad, 2 pitches, 210 feet   
Go Van Gogh   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Leggo My Eggo   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet   
Jesus or Jeopardy   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Old Peculier   5.11-     Trad, 60 feet   
Cracked Egg   5.11c     Trad, 2 pitches, 130 feet, Grade II   
Browse More Classics in The Egg

Featured Route For The Egg
Following... 2002

Lowe Blow 5.9+  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Egg
Ruckmans only give this one star, but I gave it two if only because it is a great off-width test piece. I climbed this first back in the early 80's, and again last spring in March, when it was beautiful, sunny and surprisingly warm. The first pitch is a cruise up to the two-bolt belay. From here the crack lulls you in with a couple of good jams, but as it angles left and steepens, it widens to just beyond good hand-stacks and requires strenous arm-bars and knee stuffs. If you have plenty of ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of The Egg Slideshow Add Photo
Egg and Dragon Arch

BETA PHOTO: Egg and Dragon Arch

1) Leggo My Eggo 2) Variety Delight 3) Just Say No to Crack 4) Huevos Rancheros 5) Lowe Blowe 6) Jesus or Jeopardy 7) Groovin'

BETA PHOTO: 1) Leggo My Eggo 2) Variety Delight 3) Just Say ...

The Egg

BETA PHOTO: The Egg

The Egg.

BETA PHOTO: The Egg.

Great Beta on how to approach The Egg

BETA PHOTO: Great Beta on how to approach The Egg


Comments on The Egg Add Comment
Show which comments —
By Vince Romney
Jul 26, 2004

I've climbed many times on the Egg in mid-winter during our 40-50 degree day warm-spells. It offers varied face and crack/groove climbing, with a particularly interesting (awkward) off-width (.9+) courtesy of George Lowe. Pretty much all easy to moderate climbs with a couple .10a's thrown in. Food for the odd day out.

By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Oct 17, 2011

For approach - new trail leads to west side of egg and if you do the scramble up from there, you will be at base of Leggo and a few tricky moves from the other routes. To reach the base of most of the routes, you need to find the old trail heading right along the base of the Egg and then scramble up and left to the ledge below Variety/Groovin.