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Coffin Buttress Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Coffin Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	C.P.O.D. T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Closed Casket Variation S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Coffin Roof T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Coffin, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Exsqueeze Me S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	No Star Tuesday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Rightside Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Strewn Masters of Hore S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Viewing, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

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Elevation:	5,945 ft	1,812 m
GPS:	40.57418, -111.77065 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	61,943 total · 234/month
Shared By:	Peter Gram on Mar 24, 2004 · Updates
Admins:	Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

The Coffin Buttress is home to one of the finest finger cracks in Little Cottonwood Canyon, The Coffin (5.9). Also, a couple of bolted routes run up the slabs and a very difficult crack splits the Coffin Roof (5.12).

Getting There

Park in the Little Cottonwood lower canyon Park and Ride. Locate the climber's access trail in the lot's northeast corner (directly north of the restroom). Follow this trail east until you are directly below the obvious shaped Coffin Buttress.

The most enjoyable way to get to The Coffin is to first climb Crescent Crack (5.7, 2 pitches) on the Crescent Crack Buttress. This lands you right at the base of the rock. Another alternative is to climb a steep trail that leads to the base, to the right of the Crescent Crack Buttress approach trail.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Coffin Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 734 ● The Coffin Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 78 ● Rightside Variation Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R 204 ● The Viewing Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 14 ● C.P.O.D. Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 57 ● Closed Casket Variation Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 23 ● Exsqueeze Me Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b 25 ● Coffin Roof Trad
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b 4 ● Strewn Masters of Hore Sport