BETA PHOTO: Crescent Crack Buttress from the road: 1-Mexican C...
Description
The Coffin Buttress is home to one of the finest finger cracks in Little Cottonwood Canyon, The Coffin (5.9). Also, a couple of bolted routes run up the slabs and a very difficult crack splits the Coffin Roof (5.12).
Getting There
The most enjoyable way to get to the Coffin is to first climb Crescent Crack (5.7, 2 pitches) on the Crescent Crack Buttress. This lands you right at the base of the rock. Another alternative is to climb a steep trail that leads to the base, to the right of the Crescent Crack Buttress approach trail.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Coffin Buttress:
The Coffin is the obvious finger crack that perfectly splits the face on the Coffin Buttress. The gear is great the whole way, and you can sew it up with finger size pieces.Clip the manky pin left of the crack, then traverse into the crack. Place a small cam, then fire up the beautiful finger crack for 80' to the large roof. From here two options exist. Traverse right (easier) to the anchors, or traverse left to anchors. Going left is highly...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
By Peter Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT May 14, 2004
Just to clarify on the Coffin Buttress approach. Start as for Crescent Crack from the highway. A fork is encountered a ways up which has the right branch go into a water drainage (left goes through overgrown trees to Crescent Crack). This drainage is the trail. Follow this, eventually leading to scrambling across slabs to the base of the Coffin.
Just to further clarify the Coffin approach, you can now park at the aptly named Park and Ride at the bottom of the canyon and use the new trail to approach everything from Bongeater to the Egg, including the Coffin.
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