Secret Garden

Description 

The Secret Garden is the home of some of the hardest problems in the canyon, classic moderates, and a few projects that will make the first ascentionist famous for sure. The rock is high quality and it is a good place to warm up or burn out. All of the problems on the warm up boulder are very good and there are tons of eliminates to get your session started. Twisted (V4) is the classic moderate of the area and very worth doing. Lance's Dihedral (v6) is also a classic, try the Bear Hug Arete (V8) and find out what sand bagging really means. The v10 circuit Copperhead, Mr. Mom, All Thumbs, and Shingles are some of the best in the state. Also, if you are really feeling strong, you can give Bully (V11/12) a couple burns. For better beta and an online guide check out www.climbxmedia.com or wait until spring, two guide books will be coming out.

Getting There 

Park on the south side of the road .15 mile past the digital sign at the mouth of Little Cottonwood Canyon. The boulders are on the north side of the road. The trail starts between two street signs. Upon entering the area there will be a large arete with drilled shotholes from mormons. This area is the Secret Garden.

Featured Route For Secret Garden

Direct North Face of Shothole V0  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : All Thumbs Boulder

This climbs the center of the north face of the All Thumbs Boulder(opposite from the road). Walk along the Secret Garden trail - this will be the second large boulder and the first on the left side of the trail.Start in the center of the face on a huge jug. Move from giant jug to giant jug through the overhang to the top. Kinda high, but a good landing. V0 doesn't get any more fun than this. ...[more]