BETA PHOTO: Centered in this photo, the two levels of blank ro...
Description
Popular on hot mornings as this crag offers nice northwest-facing climbs. Fine Yosemite-like granite and several stellar multi-pitch climbs. Mostly trad but a few sport routes in the .11 - .12 range. Don't miss Pentapitch and Sasquatch!
Getting There
The Pentapitch area is on the south side of the canyon. Park 1.85 miles past the neon sign at the mouth of the canyon. Cross the bridge across the stream by the old power plant and walk to the junction with an old road. Turn left and go for 1/4 mile. Just past two big pine trees look for a small path branching off to the right (south) that crosses over a pipe. Follow this trail southwest up through the trees and across a boulder field. A small drainage just above the trees leads to the base of Pentapitch.
A classic Little Cottonwood multi pitch climb. Features fun crack and face climbing on quality granite. 2nd/3rd and 4th/5th pitches can be run together into 2 pitches easily if you keep rope drag down with use of long runners. Descend by numerous rap stations available on right side of route (adjacent to Sasquatch). All raps can be done with a single 50 meter rope. ...[more]
pentapitch is a LCC classic. Don't skip the last pitch, it is a great pitch when run together as a long single pitch, and has great exposure while padding over to the tree that is no longer there! BONUS!! Also, if you have done "sasquatch" a million times, try "Ginseng", a nice alternate route to the right of sasquatch, it has a reachy 10a crux, but is very rewarding moves.
The description how to get to this rock is confusing if you've never been there before. The two large pine trees are bigger than the other large pine trees in the area and are a few feet off the road to the left, at the third trail that branches off the road. Stay along the right edge of the boulder field and go to the top right corner of it, where a short trail will lead you to the base of pentapitch. Sasquatch is to the right, and begins on a low angle slab below an overhang.
My current favorite link-up is Neuromancer -> Sasquatch -> Pentapitch. Nice and varied climbing, and it gets easier the higher you go. Also a nice way to skip the crowds on Pentapitch proper.
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