Mountain Project: Climbing Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon

LCC offers primarily quartz monzonite (white granite, essentially) with a few areas of limestone.

Trad, sport, bouldering, and ice climbing are all well-represented here. Most of the climbs are on the sunnier, north side of the canyon, but shade may be found for those hot summer days. In addition, north-facing classic routes are found on the south side of the canyon (see especially Pentapitch Area and Coal Pit Buttress.

On the north side of the canyon, roughly from The Egg past the Gate Buttress, the rock is either owned by or the approaches to the tock cross land owned by the LDS Church. Be considerate when crossing/using these areas.

The Wasatch Resort about one mile up the canyon on the right (south) presents access problems to some of the crags on that side of the canyon as well.

Ice Climbing

This is a well known area. The Falcon guide has numerous routes listed, but realistically only 2 that come in real thick (at least that I've seen in the last 7 years of my ice climbing experience). There are a lot of other thin routes throughout the canyon. The 2 main lines are Scruffy Band and the Great White Icicle. The GW Icicle has always got a crowd! Last year I went up there at 10 at night for a late night run up the ice thinking the route would be free. There were still 2 groups just starting up the trail. This wouldn't be too bad, but the route is somewhat narrow, so anyone climbing above you will knock ice on you. So if you're looking for a remote, backcountry experience, this is not the area. Both Scruffy and GW icicle have easy approaches (10-30min) and the routes are moderate in difficulty (WI 2-3). So if you want a close easy climb with a crowd, these are probably good places to climb.

Getting There

From the I-215 beltway around Salt Lake, take the 6200 South exit at the southeast corner of the loop. Follow signs to the ski resorts and Big and Little Cottonwood canyon. Pass the left turn into BCC and continue on Wasatch Blvd (Route 210) for a few more miles. This road leads directly up into LCC. From the south, exit I-15 at 9000 South (Route 209). Head east as 209 becomes 9400 South and eventually hits Wasatch (210) at the mouth of LCC. Turn right and head up the canyon. (camping info#littlecottonwood)

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Little Cottonwood Canyon:

Schoolroom 5.6 Trad, 5 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area

Crescent Crack 5.7 Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet Crescent Crack Buttress

Beckey's Wall 5.7 Trad, 3 pitches, 160 feet Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area

Pentapitch 5.8 Trad Pentapitch Area

Satan's Corner 5.8 Trad, 2 pitches, 100 feet Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area

Bushwhack Crack 5.8 Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area

The Coffin 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Coffin Buttress

After The Fall 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Green Adjective Gully

The Green Adjective 5.9 Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar...

S-Direct 5.9+ R Trad, 7 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III The Thumb Area

Gordon's Hangover 5.9+ Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar...

Sasquatch 5.9+ Trad Pentapitch Area

Mexican Crack 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Crescent Crack Buttress

Black Streak 5.10a/b PG13 Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III Albion Basin : Devil's Castle

The Fin Arete 5.10b R Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II The Fin

The Dorsal Fin 5.10d Trad, 4 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II The Fin

Bongeater 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Bongeater Buttress

Stiffler's Mom 5.11a Trad, 12 pitches, 1300 feet, Grade III Coal Pit Buttress

Trench Warfare 5.12+ Trad, 60 feet Allen's Ridge Area

Fallen Arches 5.13a Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Green Adjective Gully

Comments on Little Cottonwood Canyon

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Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 12, 2013

By Anonymous Coward
Dec 28, 2001

Little Cottonwood is an infamous area with a rich history of great traditional climbs, bouldering, and superb backcountry skiing. The rock is a very solid granite variation and offers many excellent cam and nut placements. Most routes have bolted belays, a very nice luxury, and all offer amazing climbing in equally amazing settings. Boulering is definitely not to be over looked, the canyon contains numerous routes ranging from V0 to V13. There are many bouldering spots, so one can find solitude and most offer extremely short approaches. No matter what type of climbing you are looking to do, Little Cottonwood Canyon will offer some of the best routes in wonderful and surreal settings.

By Taylor Morgan
From: Draper, UT
Jan 11, 2011

Snowbird has proposed to build a roller coaster in Little Cottonwood Canyon, on the lower south face of Mt. Superior:

www.deseretnews.com/article/705364186/Snowbird-resort-seeks->>>

I strongly oppose Snowbird's plans to build a roller coaster on the lower south face of Mt. Superior, across from and over Little Cottonwood Canyon Road.

Snowbird claims the proposed site is not used by hikers or backcountry skiers. This is not accurate. The area is on the southwest face of Mt. Superior, directly adjacent its summer trailhead/winter access points. This area is one of the most popular and treasured mountaineering, hiking, and backcountry skiing areas in Utah.

Furthermore, Mt. Superior is among the most beautiful and photographed areas in Utah, and the West. In fact, the 1976 Denver Olympic Bid Committee used a photo of Mt. Superior on its official bid packet.

While the proposed roller coaster will not directly inhibit mountaineering, hiking, or skiing, it will significantly diminish these pursuits and will be an embarrassing eyesore in Little Cottonwood Canyon.

Utah residents and tourists visit our canyons to play in the mountains, not on amusement-park rides.

Please contact your member of the Salt Lake County Council to urge them to oppose Snowbird's plans.

By J Geisler
Dec 19, 2012

Great White Icicle Access Map
Submitted By: J Geisler on Dec 19, 2012

ATTN: CLIMBERS ACCESSING THE GREAT WHITE ICICLE AND OTHER AREAS ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF LITTLE COTTONWOOD CREEK

For years ice and rock climbers have accessed the Great White Icicle and other south side areas by using the bridge and parking at the site of a small hydro electric plant a couple of miles up Little Cottonwood Canyon. In 2010, the current owner, Cottonwood Hydro, was forced to remove the bridge during a flood event that threatened the plant. Since then, Cottonwood Hydro has posted no trespassing and no parking signs to protect the plant operations and access to their private property.

As a responsible climber, you can help improve the SLCA�s relationship with Cottonwood Hydro. Do not trespass or block the area and avoid the no parking and hydro hazard areas. Keep off the pipe, intake structures, and dam at all times! During times of low water, access the south side of the creek by using the recommended cross- country route shown in the map. During times of high water, use one of the bridges along the Little Cottonwood Trail provided by Cottonwood Hydro in partnership with the USFS. Bridges are located approximately � mile upstream or � mile downstream of this location. When possible, carpool from a Park and Ride to conserve the limited, available parking. Thanks for your cooperation!

By Anson Call
Mar 30, 2013

BEWARE of TICKS! My wife and I were in the lower parts of the canyon today. A few hours after we left, she discovered a tick on the back of her neck, just above her hairline. CREEPY and DANGEROUS! Ticks can carry some pretty nasty diseases, like Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain spotted fever. It's something most people don't even think about, but they can be a real hazard - especially in the spring. Every time you leave the canyon, be sure to check your skin and scalp for these nasty buggers!

By zoso
Mar 30, 2013

Thanks! I never thought of that. What does a tick look like?

By waltereo
Apr 12, 2013

Is there any snow left on the ground at Little CottonWood Canyon ?

I'd like to do some multipitches and wondering if i can descend safely without crampons or icepick from the summit .

I am planning to be in SLC between April 20 and May 4

Thanks

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Little Cottonwood Canyon

Description

Ice Climbing

Getting There

The Classics