BETA PHOTO: Pocket Rocket climbs to the top of this wall.
Description
Sustained and exposed climbing for most of the climb. The crux is just after the runout section towards the top. Try to find holds that won't flake off as you struggle to get over the bulge.
Location
This route is furthest to the west on the north face.
Protection
9 bolts to chains. 5.5 runout between bolts #5 and #6 with plenty of pockets and cracks for small to medium placements. 2 chains at the top. Bring QDs and a helmet (we pulled out a BIG rock here). 70 meter rope required for rappel, otherwise, use bolt #5 (huge glue-in) for second rappel.
Add CommentComments on Pocket Rocket Right Variation
Good climb for anyone who likes long exposed leads. The route is closer to 120 feet. Tie a knot in the end of your rope, and look our for loose rock. Helmets are a very good idea.
Great exposure, pulled off a couple holds here and there, but no real problem. Juuuust made it with a 70m rope, double check that knot. Should become a great route with traffic, although this felt a little harder than 5.8, especially after climbing Rocket Science. Softer, looser stone than the reef.
Hi Ryan, Yes, (I noticed a questionmark after my name) this line I did drill around 1999 if it is the one with the Glue In Bolt and as you mentioned it facilitates the rap if you are up there with only one rope. We called it Ridin' The Rocket back then. Sorry to hear it still has some looseness on it. I recall it being pretty fun, though.