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John Doe 2 

5.11 PG13

   

FA: ??
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.11a/b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 149 page views

Submitted By: Boissal on May 28, 2009


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Description 

Described in the Ruckmans guide as "2 bolts that don't seem to have a home", this mixed route has some fun moves and a powerful crux section.

Scramble/climb up the easy blocky section between the starts of Total X and Fortress to a ledge below the large alcove. Lieback your way into the alcove before clipping a bolt and committing to the powerful crux, a long balancy reach to a decent edge. A few easier moves bring you to the second bolt and another cruxy section of crystal pinching.


Location 

Located on the Watchtower in between Total X and Fortress, easily identified by a big alcove about 1/3 of the way up the route.


Protection 

2 bolts that look a bit battered. A #2 and maybe #3 for the main (hollow) undercling, some micros or small nuts for the upper flake.
Ancient rusty bolts/chains on top, better to rap off.



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By Boissal
From: UT
May 28, 2009

This route deserves more traffic, it's fun and burly. The gear looks solid but it might be PGish on the upper section where things get a bit thin.
I thought the crux was a bouldery move, hard 10 or maybe easy 11.
Thoughts?

Edit: after getting back on it I'd say it's more like mid 11, sustained climbing with hard-to-place and questionable gear.

By Alec
Jun 23, 2009
rating: 5.11a

What differentiates this route is the topout -- the direct finish is much more difficult than Fortress.

As for the gear, my partner today whipped on a red C3 behind the flake between the two bolts. He took off a chunk of rock too with another cam which freed up another small placement!