This is a good route to practice fiddling with gear on. Start by clambering up a few blocks using jams, smears and the occasional shallow edge. Climb through flakes following the most profound crack passing both good and marginal placements. Continue on this until the crack dies out. Slope, smear, then insecurely rock your way left onto a large ledge to gain the anchor.
This route is short and almost more work than its worth. The crux sits high and the protection is a bit hard to place. Shaky gear, mixed with insecure stances keeps this line just that, a jointed venture.
Location
This route lies on the small crag north of Extreme Unction. It sits directly right of Squash Rocker and starts in the crack splitting the three stacked blocks.
Protection
All gear to a set of hangers. Stoppers, slings, and cams from .2 - #2 bd. At the time of this writing there were two quick links on a two bolt anchor allowing a rap, otherwise perform the half-heinous walk off.
Harder than it looks, it's easy to get dragged on the face to the right by pro opportunities. Staying in the crack and the left face is harder. A bit thin in places. One quicklink left on the anchor. Bring a spider stick.
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