An in-your-face boulder problem on the north side of the Watchtower. Still gritty but should clean up after a few more ascents. Kinda reachy and powerful.
Location
On the Watchtower. Shares the same start as Bats in the Belfry but continues straight up the north side of the Watchtower. There are several approach pitch options from the ground. Alternately, one can downclimb around from the top (easy 4th class).
Protection
Hand-sized cams protect the moves below the roof. Two bolts on the upper face. The first bolt can be clipped from the bomber handjam below the roof. Very hard to clip second bolt, I clipped it from above after the crux. A purple Metolius TCU can be placed in a little slot below the top. Bolt anchors on top. I will place chains to facilitate lowering (the chains I originally brought weren't long enough). With a 70m rope you can rap to the ground from the top.
Some stoppers and TCUs might be handy for the belay anchor at the start of the tower pitch.
By Ben Folsom From: Sandy, Utah Sep 19, 2008 rating: 5.11+
Nice route! Cool, bouldery climbing on the upper headwall. Climbed it in one pitch from the ground starting on Beef Jerky. Seemed like a good way to do it. As Dave said, it's a little gritty, but seems like it will clean up quick with a few people on it.
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