Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
The Watchtower
Show routes:
Select route...
40oz causulatie 
Broken Serenity 
Condor 
Confessional, The 
Conflict 
Dehumanized 
Dirge, The 
Double Cross 
Drunk Punk Oi 
Extreme Unction 
Faultline Variation 
Final Prayer Variation 
Fire and Brimstone 
Fishlips 
Fortress 
Garden of Eden 
Grommet 
Hellfire Variation 
Holy Grail 
Hungry for Heaven 
Imperial 
Inner Light 
Lipstick on a Pig 
Outer Darkness 
Oxymoron 
Repeat Offender 
Scratchin' for the Loomer 
Spirit Prison 
Steel Reserve 
Total Ramon 
Total X 
Uncensored Society 
Woogie, The 

Lipstick on a Pig 

5.11+

   

FA: Dave Budge w/ Todd & Winslow Passey, 9/08
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 202 page views

Submitted By: Dave Budge on Sep 15, 2008


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Description 

An in-your-face boulder problem on the north side of the Watchtower. Still gritty but should clean up after a few more ascents. Kinda reachy and powerful.


Location 

On the Watchtower. Shares the same start as Bats in the Belfry but continues straight up the north side of the Watchtower. There are several approach pitch options from the ground. Alternately, one can downclimb around from the top (easy 4th class).


Protection 

Hand-sized cams protect the moves below the roof. Two bolts on the upper face. The first bolt can be clipped from the bomber handjam below the roof. Very hard to clip second bolt, I clipped it from above after the crux. A purple Metolius TCU can be placed in a little slot below the top. Bolt anchors on top. I will place chains to facilitate lowering (the chains I originally brought weren't long enough). With a 70m rope you can rap to the ground from the top.

Some stoppers and TCUs might be handy for the belay anchor at the start of the tower pitch.



Add Comment Comments on Lipstick on a Pig
Show which comments
By Ben Folsom
Sep 19, 2008
rating: 5.11+

Nice route! Cool, bouldery climbing on the upper headwall. Climbed it in one pitch from the ground starting on Beef Jerky. Seemed like a good way to do it. As Dave said, it's a little gritty, but seems like it will clean up quick with a few people on it.