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The Cathedral
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Swamp Cooler 

Karmic Trace 

5.12

   

FA: Ben Folsom August 10th 2008
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.12 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 254 page views

Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Aug 10, 2008


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BETA PHOTO: The middle-right side of the Cathedral between Dev...


Description 

Strenuous moves in a dihedral lead to a knifeblade in a horizontal. Another big move leads to good cracks above. Where the crack kind of runs out, continue straight up the face past gear placements in horizontals. A final mantle onto a slab and a good horizontal crack to set up a gear belay.

To descend, and easy scramble right (about 5.4) from the natural anchor will lead you to a set of chains on top of Celestial Ascension. Rappel from there.


Location 

To the right of Swamp Cooler is Painted Bird, which has a bolt and pin at a 3 foot roof. To the right of that is "Tainted Word" which has a fixed knifeblade above a small roof. Just to the right of that is a clean dihedral with a fixed knifeblade in a horizontal above the end of the dihedral. This is "Karmic Trace". The next route to the right is "Devil Tree".


Protection 

A set of cams from small to #2 camalot size. Be sure to save two or three for the belay. The horizontal crack for the belay is varied in size.



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Wholesome's overlooked gem Karmic Trace

Wholesome's overlooked gem Karmic Trace


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By Ben Folsom
Aug 10, 2008

I spent many hours cleaning dirt, gravel & cobwebs out of the cracks. The knifeblade which protects the crux is bomber. When I placed it, it rang and went in perfectly. I have fallen on it many, many times and it hasn't budged.

By Ben Folsom
Aug 11, 2008

I tried to do my homework... but if anybody has led this (or soloed it) before, please let me know and I'll go yank the pin I placed and delete this post. I doubt it has been climbed before as the crack was full, and I mean full of dirt and gravel. I spent 4-6 hours cleaning it out. I did not clean any of the nice, green, aesthetic lichen off the wall. None of the usable holds interfered with it. I asked around and couldn't find anything about this line anywhere.

By Drew Bedford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Aug 13, 2008

Nice work Ben! Been eyeing that 'hedral for years. Glad you did the cleaning!

By clayhoon
Sep 16, 2008

nice addition.. hard little boulder problem..