Begin just right of Extreme Unction and climb the steep arete and face passing two bolts. After the second bolt continue up the arete passing some good gear placements to the top. The typical belay is the same for Extreme Unction.
(A good variation is to climb Fishlips and after the second bolt, after getting established on the arete, finish on the roof section of Extreme Unction.)
Location
The route starts just right of Extreme Unction and just left of the Outer Darkness Chimney.
Protection
Some small to medium cams and there are some good nut placements as well.
The moves to reach the 1st bolt can be protected with a #1 BD. It's a blind placement in a nice horizontal and you can readjust the cam from the last good hold before getting down to business. There's also a great .75 placement above the 2nd bolt just to the left of the arete that protects the upper section. A few micros protect the last easy bit of climbing.
Tried this today and got sucked to the right after the 2nd bolt where a good hold appears. Was fun but not the route I was going for, next time I guess. Could this be a new variation? LOL
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