Crimpy sideways holds with funky footwork. A bueno little package of climbing. Like a bolted Little Cottonwood boulder problem. Andale!
Location
Total Ramon is to the left of Scratchin' for the Loomer, which both rise from the slope around the corner and uphill from the flat spot below Fortress..
Protection
Bring a few draws for the bolts. Getting to the first bolt can be spicy, it can be stick-clipped (but it won't be as proud as going ground up in lycra tights).
There are bolted chain anchors on the ledge above. Read Drew's comments below regarding extra pieces above the last bolt to reduce the potential monster ripper if you blow it on the 5.9 finish.
By Arie Leeflang From: North Korea Sep 6, 2007 rating: 5.11c
Fun, fun line. Short with a powerful sequence that seems to relent above the second bolt. But save some petrol for the easier finish as I vaguely remember some deck potential reaching the anchors...
I guess if you want to be picky about it, this route is really X rated. It's moderate at the top, but you're definitely still climbing, and you'd be cratering by the time you're getting close to the anchors. Not that that should keep a an .11 leader from doing it, all the hard stuff is well protected. Stick clip on the first bolt though unless you're solid. Burly crux moves, be sure to bring your body tension and edging shoes!
By Drew Bedford From: Wasatch Back, UT Aug 24, 2008
I certainly never called this a sport route. I would have said 5.11 R. There are cams to be had above the bolts. It's only X (1) if you fall on 5.9, and (2) you have chosen not to carry or place gear.
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