Beautiful face and crack climbing on upper wall above and left of Ramon and Loomer. Great continuous climbing protected with small TCUs (no bolts). Really cool features, the climbing on the upper wall is stellar.
Easy to TR from new sport route to the left (shares anchors).
Location
Starts in obvious crack chimney left of Total Ramon. Climb up through easier blocky terrain to thin crack system that splits the right side of the upper wall. A 60m rope will get you down.
Protection
Doubles of purple, blue, and yellow TCUs. Bring some bigger stuff for the approach crack. Bolted anchors with chains. Be prepared for an easy runout (9+/10-) to chains above a purple TCU (one could clip last bolt on sport route to the left if desperately pumped).
By glen kaplan From: Salt Lake City, UT Aug 11, 2007 rating: 5.11+ PG13
Kent...killa go!...you definitely have nerves and steel reserve! i got some great video of you flying!!! and will eventually post it somewheres...the pics are all right...
FYI: while i certainly agree Dave/Kent have the most likely FA based on gumption, balls, cleaning, etc...i know i am not the only one to have tr'd this before...after all, you rap down the exact route when rapping off of Gregorio's and LD's 'Conflict' .10d 5/28/04 (the bolted line to the left)
so maybe there is another...
IT IS A PROUD AND HEADY TRAD LINE w/ awesome sporty moves!!!
Dave & Co, Really nice work. Historically it would have been cool if there was still a pin or two left from when you did this back in the day. Looks like you did not need them as protection though. Ballsy ascent and much respect for not retroing your climb. What a sick trad line! Congrats, Luke
Its a great route, now much cleaner and totally climbable. Too bad someone took the pin out, would've been a nice piece of history. If people aren't going to send something, there's no point in removing a pin, it is our history, it tells a story.
By Drew Bedford From: Wasatch Back, UT Mar 31, 2008
This was originally done as the second pitch to Total Ramon in '83. Hank Armantrout and I put in one pin near the top, which was there until the new routes and anchors to climber's left made pin stealing easier. We told Les Elison not to include it in the guide simply because the rock was too gritty. Funny how a few years in AF change your perspective. Glad it's seeing some traffic.
This is a very good route, but the start should be the sport route below, which adds some variation. It still has some suspect rock, otherwise it would be spectacular. A couple of key (for me, anyway) large holds are grainy and a tad hollow. Plenty of pro but a heady lead nonetheless.
The Watchtower
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