Presiding Nymph 

FA:  Hank Armantrout and Mike Mead, 1993 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 50 feet Views: 80 page views Submitted By: Ryan Brough on Jun 17, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Presiding Nymph is the obvious, right-leaning crac...

Description 

After a long, arduous hike, I began to wonder if I had wasted my time and energy. Presiding Nymph did not disappoint. It climbs even better than it looks, and I'm pretty sure that I drooled when I first saw it. Some of the jams are funky, but they are so sweet! Then there are these stretchy stems at the crux that make your pants split! It gets narrow fast, and you start to squeeze a little, but a bomber wrist lock bails you out and deposits you on a sloping ledge. A short crack guards the top. Here, wide hands or narrow fists supplement fantastic foot jams. The rock here is gritty and it exfoliates a steady stream; however, the rock instills more confidence than you would first imagine.

Location 

Find a super-obvious right-leaning crack in the center of the Gallant Wall and climb it. Rappel from slings and rappel rings.

Protection 

A selection of nuts and cams to a #2 camalot should suffice. All of the routes on the Gallant Wall share the same slings and rappel rings on a tree. There is no fixed protection on this route.

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Stems and jams, oh so sweet...

Quite the bottleneck...