Final Prayer Variation 

FA:  Bobby Rotert 1982 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10a/b [details] Length:  1 pitch, 40 feet Views: 155 page views Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 3, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: 1) Final Prayer Variation 2) The Dirge

Description 

Final Prayer Variation starts on the North Facing wall at the west end of the Watchtower. It comes right out of the stream bed. It starts on the left end of this wall, clips a new bolt and then angles further left to a pin. From here it angles back right to a nice hand ledge and up and over to some chains a bit further right. Aside from the rambling nature, it is a very good route with some fun moves. A reachy crux, after the pin. The book calls this a 5.10a, maybe I am getting older and weaker or maybe it's just Ferguson, but I felt this was harder than that.

Protection 

1 bolt and a pin. A really small cam can back up the pin, and above that there is a large enough horizontal crack for a #1 Camalot, and one more smaller cam or medium nut would help. Long runners are neccesary as well. Chains at the top for a rappel.