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The Watchtower
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Inner Light 

5.7

   

FA: Unknown
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 494 page views

Submitted By: Eric Jacobsen on Sep 25, 2003


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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BETA PHOTO: Inner Light 5.7 on the Watchtower in Ferguson Cany...


Description 

This face is great. Lots of nice sized crimper holds, some just far enough away to make it challanging. Do this face three or four different ways and all are interesting lines. A tree branch near the top can get in your way on the descent.


Protection 

Ruckman has this at 5.7R but I see very little opportunity for protection on the first half of this climb, and the crease up the top half is a bit flared. It is easily top-roped off two new bolts in a big boulder on the southeast corner of the buttress. There are some older chains one tier down from the top that could be used as well. Either setup will give you quite a bit of rope drag so I'd recommend some long (30') slings and possibly some big cams or hexes as a directional to your toprope setup. Scramble around the west side of the first Watchtower wall to get up there...not too difficult.



Add Photo Photos of Inner Light
Zoom in on this picture... There are pieces about every three feet with the first being about 6 feet off the ground. Every single one of these pieces is bomber and would hold a fall. I didn't use the crack at the top at all for any of the gear. Some small nuts and small to medium cams is all it takes to sew this thing up.

BETA PHOTO: Zoom in on this picture... There are pieces about...

Lisa using the crack to ascend.

Lisa using the crack to ascend.


Add Comment Comments on Inner Light
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By Nathan Fisher
Administrator
Apr 22, 2004
rating: 5.7

I would agree with the protection or lack of on this route. Tough lead, I ended up top-roping it.

By Bobby Hanson
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 14, 2005
rating: 5.7

This is a good lead. There isn't very much protection, but it's there. I recommend small aliens, maybe Blue through Yellow, plus some slightly larger cams or TCUs too. I think I even got a #1 or #2 Camalot in somewhere up higher. A great belayer is also recommended.

By Anonymous Coward
May 23, 2005

Black Alien, or creative nutting take the teeth right'outta this beauty. Protectable, but yes, you have to climb the first 10/15 feet to that gear. A great lead ! Lets hope it doesn't sprout a bolt! Giove it a shot, and you will find it to be a very rewarding lead (just have a spotter!!)

By Nathan Fisher
Administrator
Jun 5, 2005
rating: 5.7

Finally, got this redpoint thanks to Bobby Hanson bringing the small stuff. 2-3 micro cams, and then you are on easy street. A good spotter wouldn't be a bad idea either. A very balancey and heady lead.

By Ben Folsom
Sep 9, 2007

There is tons of pro on this climb. If you want to and are a tiny bit creative, you can get either bomber small cams or great nuts in about every 3 feet from the bottom to the top. So yeah, if this ever sprouted a bolt, it would be a real shame!