Above the staircase on Extreme Unction in Ferguson...
Description
Fun climbing on an upside-down staircase, then an easy face. The crux is at the big roof followed by another short easy face. Very varied. To find this route, follow the first main Watchtower wall around to the right into a corner and look for the upside-down staircase between two large chimmneys.
Protection
I top-roped this route by hiking around the west end of the buttress and rapping down off a big tree. It was a bit of a hassle, but there's a nice ledge and anchors at the top of the route once you get there. For trad, there are many horizontal seams that would probably take small nuts or cams, and at least one old piton underneath the large roof.
You can also scramble to the top of this fairly easily from the top of the western buttress of the Watchtower.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Jul 23, 2004
Those are fantastic pictures Louis/James. Well done.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Jun 5, 2005 rating: 5.10a
A great route that protects well. We used a #2 Camalot, and then a large nut just before the easy section. Then we used a small alien, and the pin, and a #1 Camalot just over the 1st roof, and to keep the exit safe a .75 Camalot. Very awkward climb, but the moves are there and it is well worth the rush to lead this classic.
By Joseph Kolnik From: Holladay, UT Jul 6, 2008 rating: 5.10a
Very good climb, almost a classic in my book. I lead this thing strait up and later realized the guide book shows the route going to the right a bit for the first roof section. Anyway, leading this thing strait up was taxing and a bit harder than the right variation IMO.
The Watchtower
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