Above the staircase on Extreme Unction in Ferguson...
Description
Fun climbing on an upside-down staircase, then an easy face. The crux is at the big roof followed by another short easy face. Very varied. To find this route, follow the first main Watchtower wall around to the right into a corner and look for the upside-down staircase between two large chimmneys.
Protection
I top-roped this route by hiking around the west end of the buttress and rapping down off a big tree. It was a bit of a hassle, but there's a nice ledge and anchors at the top of the route once you get there. For trad, there are many horizontal seams that would probably take small nuts or cams, and at least one old piton underneath the large roof.
A great route that protects well. We used a #2 Camalot, and then a large nut just before the easy section. Then we used a small alien, and the pin, and a #1 Camalot just over the 1st roof, and to keep the exit safe a .75 Camalot. Very awkward climb, but the moves are there and it is well worth the rush to lead this classic.
By Todd Gardner From: Salt Lake City, UT Jun 2, 2006 rating: 5.10a/b
Great route. One of my favorites.
By Joseph Kolnik From: Holladay, UT Jul 6, 2008 rating: 5.10a
Very good climb, almost a classic in my book. I lead this thing strait up and later realized the guide book shows the route going to the right a bit for the first roof section. Anyway, leading this thing strait up was taxing and a bit harder than the right variation IMO.
Should be an obligatory Utah Trad tick. Outstanding!!!
By triznuty From: Murray, UT Dec 29, 2008 rating: 5.10a
I fully agree with Crisco! A classic must do! Don't let it intimidate you...
By Craig Martin From: Park City, UT Dec 29, 2008 rating: 5.10a
I once took a lead fall on this climb that scared me into never wanting to lead it again.
Things went fine up to the big roof at the top, but I was a new leader with an even newer and inadequate rack. I had one nut in above the inverted staircase, the fixed piton and one small poorly placed cam above the roof. As I fired for the top I couldn't find any more gear and became pumped silly. I totally lost my cool and told my belayer of my imminent fall. He informed me I couldn't fall from there, but I did anyways. All said and done I fell from just below the top and my feet barely touched the ground before I was caught. My belayer saved my ass by running backwards about 10' as I fell. I was left hanging from just the fixed pin, all my other gear had ripped out.
It is a great climb and I am sure it is a good lead, but I will probably never try it again.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
