The Heart Wall as seen from the top of the Guano W...
Description
The exception to Ferguson Canyon. Hot and dry. These routes are longer and require gear. They have an easy walk-off to the west.
Getting There
Follow the main trail, and BEFORE you get to the "entering wilderness" sign, take a small trail across the stream. Locate the 2 cliifs. Cliff on the East is Heart Wall. Bushwack between them until you can gain ledges to the climbs. Some 5.3 climbing involved. Be Careful.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Heart Wall:
This is a great winter crag on a clear, sunny day. It is really easy to find your way when the leaves are gone from the trees; you don't have to bushwhack either. The approach doesn't require any scrambling, there is an established trail to the base of the climbs, and a trail for the walk off too.
Climbed this wall a couple of years ago, the blue route in the beta picture, and enjoyed the relative isolation. BEWARE of rattlesnakes on the walk off! Climb on~
The approach is much, much more simple if you hike the trail until you are almost perpendicular to the walls. A very well established path starts on the other side of a log that is laid out to keep people on the main trail into Ferguson. Step over the log, walk down a nice path to the shallow river. Cross on rocks or walk right through with sandals. The trail starts up on the opposite side and isn't more than 2 minutes from the base of Heart Wall. If you are bush-wacking to get to Heart Wall, you are doing it wrong.
Lots of loose rock and pebbles on these climbs. Helmets recommended.