BETA PHOTO: This shot was taken near the intersection at the m...
Description
This small canyon is just to the south of Big Cottonwood Canyon and is a great place to beat the summer heat. There are several small crags on north-facing walls under a canopy of large trees. A small stream runs by and sometimes makes it difficult to get up there without getting your feet wet. The canyon is also a popular place for picnics or walking your dog. (Ferguson, along with Mill Creek Canyon is one of the few canyons you can take your dog).
Ice Climbing
The popular summer crag canyon actually has ice! No much of ice, but I was able to front point up about 45' in April. If you hike on the Ferguson trail, passing all the climbing buttresses, you'll see some flows on the south side of the canyon. It's as simple as that, hike till you see ice, if you don't see ice, keep hiking (unless nothing formed that year).
Getting There
Follow directions to the mouth of Big Cottonwood Canyon. There is a 7-11 store here, at the intersection of Wasatch Blvd (Hwy 210) and Fort Union Blvd (Hwy 190, also 7200 South). From this intersection, head south on Wasatch Blvd for a quarter mile and turn left (east) into the Prospector Drive neighborhoods. Take an immediate right and head south up the hill. Take the second left onto Timberline drive and park alongside the right side of the road near the trailhead sign. A dirt road leads to a white water tower and then turns into a trail that descends into the canyon. Follow various branching trails east into the mouth of the canyon. The trail and almost all climbs are on the south side of the stream. The approach for the first climbs on the Watchtower is 15-20 minutes.
Fun climbing on an upside-down staircase, then an easy face. The crux is at the big roof followed by another short easy face. Very varied. To find this route, follow the first main Watchtower wall around to the right into a corner and look for the upside-down staircase between two large chimmneys....[more]
This is one of the funnest areas around. There are a lot of routes not mentioned here. Does anyone know anything about the climb just starting up the steep path to the right, it is about 7 maybe 8 bolts, feels like a 5.9+ or 5.10. Just hunting a name a and such.
By Drew Bedford From: Wasatch Back, UT Mar 31, 2008
This is a popular canyon, with a long climbing history. The lack of a guidebook update in the last ten years has led to a few "repeat FA's". If you find a route with fixed gear, it's most likely been freed before (duh). A few routes in this canyon were first done as solos, then got bolted later by others. My point is, do your homework and ask around before claiming a FA, and certainly before you bolt. And DON'T STEAL FIXED PITONS. Get a job dirtbag.
Ferguson Canyon
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