This route has been in the Ruckman guide which was updated from the original ascent. This is good fun climbing and the South Face Rappels have been added to enable descent with one 60m rope. It seemed far enough up there to justify carrying the weight of only one rope. I have heard favorable reports about this climb over the years from other visitors. After arriving at the base of the West Arete (which should take about 3 hours from the trailhead...less with a really light load and if you are going just for the day)....
Pitch #1: Climb the crack on the arete up to a bolt and continue up past knobs to an obvious belay. 5.8.
Pitch #2: The terrain steepens past more enjoyable knobs passing some fixed pins and bolts to a belay at a small tree. 5.9
Pitch #3: Up the arete and then right around the edge to a right facing dihedral (thin) to a nice stance. 5.9+.
Pitch #4: Climb mostly on the right edge up to the top and a two bolt belay / rappel. 5.9.
Location
It is nice to camp at tree line or a bit below where water is available. Then just a 15-20 minute hike to the Buttress. The Dylan routes can also be climbed on the descent...they are good climbs on patina requiring only QDs. The ledge at the base of these routes is actually a bit easier to attain via the rappels rather than from ground up! The Guardian is the large buttress sentry like formation on the south (left) at the transition in Big Willow Canyon as the trail becomes less steep and it is a sort of tree line area / alpine vegetation change.
Protection
Light. 8 QDs for mostly a bolt equipped climb. A few Camalots micro to #3 and a set of Nuts. Aside from the chain I lugged up to the top anchor, slings on the other rappels may need to be replaced. This place gets weather in the winter.
By Craig Martin From: Park City, UT Aug 17, 2006 rating: 5.9+ PG13
Climbed this on Aug. 16th. I found it to be a good, fun route on mostly good rock. Lots of fun moves, and good exposure on the arete. Really enjoyed the moves from the arete into the dihedral on the third pitch. A few pitch by pitch notes; Pitch one is 120', and is PG13. A bit runout between the first two bolts. Pitch two is 150', don't stop at the first ledge with a tree at 100', continue on to the next bigger tree and blocks. Pitch three is 140'. Pitch four is 160'. I replaced most of the webbing on the rappels with 7mm cord and added a few carabiners for rap rings, sorry, I didn't have any chains.
Craig, It is a long ways to lug chain up there, isn't it?! Nice reading of your climb, though! Were all the raps still in pretty good shape other than the webbing?
By Craig Martin From: Park City, UT Sep 1, 2006 rating: 5.9+ PG13
Yeah, it is a long way to go up there, the trail seems awfully steep in places as well. It took us two and half hours to approach but only about an hour to descend so you know it is a steep trail, but well defined and well used.
As far as the rap stations go; chains and bolts on the top are in fine condition, the second rap anchor has one good bolt and one z-ton, the z-ton seems fine for now but is probably a good candidate for replacement. Next anchor was two bolts, both in good shape, I left the slingage on these and didn't add any more. The last anchor consisted of one good bolt (the hanger may have been a spinner) and one star drive? The star drive seemed to be in better shape than most you see these days. It was in tight with a non spinning hanger. Did you place the star drive James?
Yes, A 3/8" stardryvin 3 inch bolt is bomber in granite...don't believe everything you hear about them being bad. Heck, they lasted in the desert for 30-40 years and some are still good. The piton is probably the only weak link....I think I was running out of juice when I placed the pitons at those belays next to bomber bolts. good to hear its still in good shape.
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