Climb past 6 bolts up the ever-steepening prow using juggy holds at first then hard pinches and crimps and even a few sloppers up high for good measure. The climbing is fairly sustained and the long burly moves at the crux will feel harder than 12b due to the pump factor and the feet which insist on not being where you need them. Keep a bit of forearm strength for the awkward and sloppy moves that get you on the ramp at the 6th bolt or you'll flail within reach of the anchors... Finally, watch your head as you try to avoid guano up on the ramp, there are a few skull-cracking blocks looming.
Helmet needed on a sport route?? Is this Hellgate??
The place
Plimsol Line is the third bolted route as you walk along the Broads Fork wall. It climbs the impressive steep prow just to the right of the blackened-rock section, maybe 10' right of the old fire pit. The first bolt is shared with the flakalicious route Misery
The pro
6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (well, 2 rusty glue-in eye-bolts to be accurate). Watch where the rope runs when lowering, sharp holds abound.
Don't miss the 6th bolt, it's up over the lip a bit to the right of the line. Avoid falling on bolt 3 as the hanger is facing up and would be subject to a huge amount of torque if weighted.
I was told by a burly man that the 12b rating is quite the sandbag. I don't have anything to compare the route with so I gave it the book rating. 5.hard seems accurate.
RSS Feed
