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 ADVANCED
Dogwood Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Modest Man from Mandrake 
Ain't no Party, Ain't no Disco 
Cross-Eyed and Painless 
Drunken Crack 
Haven't A Clue 
Hyper-Gamma Spaces 
I Think I'm Going Bald 
Life During Wartime 
Lion of Zion, The 
Little Creatures 
Little Critters 
Little Things 
On the Skids 
Quartzite and Stainless 
Take Me To The River 
Unforgiven 
Unknown west of Mandrake 
Unknown west of Take Me to the River 

Cross-Eyed and Painless 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Stuart Ruckman & Gordon Douglas (1989)
Page Views: 2,459
Submitted By: Cory Heintz on Jul 12, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Prominent arete at eastern-end of the Dogwood Crag. Stiff crimpy climbing down low; steep with big moves up top.


Protection 

8 bolts, chains.



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By tenesmus
Jul 12, 2009

Is it true that the original start is on the right side of the arete? Some guys climb the faint crack just left of the arete to start.

But starting on the polished jugs for This Aint No Party is more fun than either, with the rest of the climb at .12d? If you're like me and want to work this but haven't redpointed, going left is a lot less taxing if you still need to figure out the rest.

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 13, 2009

Sent? Super proud considering the grease factor. Congratulations!!

By Bart Ridd
From: SLC, UT
Nov 6, 2010

Tried this climb this morning, damn hard! But fun! Definitely rated correctly.

By John Martin
From: Kearns, UT
Jun 28, 2011

By DTM
Sep 9, 2011

First two bolts (just right of the arete)involve a V7ish boulder problem. Mantle and pull up to the super cool, overhanging arete (12c/d from mantle).