Cross-Eyed and Painless 5.13a
| 1,856 page views Good page? (1 like)  |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13a [details] |
| FA: | Stuart Ruckman & Gordon Douglas (1989) |
| Submitted By: | Cory Heintz on Jul 12, 2009 |
| |
Add Photo Printer View
Description Prominent arete at eastern-end of the Dogwood Crag. Stiff crimpy climbing down low; steep with big moves up top.
Protection 8 bolts, chains.
| Comments on Cross-Eyed and Painless |
|
By Jonathan Vickers May 2, 2013
CONDITION REPORT | I had upgraded some of the older fixed nylon and aluminum to stainless cables and biners only to come back and find them stolen. My thought was that if anything is going to be fixed on a classic line like this it should be stainless. If you happened to take those draws for an ethical reason please contact me so I can get my draws back and for a civil discussion. If you removed them for any other reason please return them to Crosseyed and Painless for future climbers. |
By tenesmus Jul 12, 2009
| Is it true that the original start is on the right side of the arete? Some guys climb the faint crack just left of the arete to start. But starting on the polished jugs for This Aint No Party is more fun than either, with the rest of the climb at .12d? If you're like me and want to work this but haven't redpointed, going left is a lot less taxing if you still need to figure out the rest. |
By Boissal From: Small Lake, UT Jul 13, 2009
| Sent? Super proud considering the grease factor. Congratulations!! |
By Bart Ridd From: SLC, UT Nov 6, 2010
| Tried this climb this morning, damn hard! But fun! Definitely rated correctly. |
By DTM Sep 9, 2011
| First two bolts (just right of the arete)involve a V7ish boulder problem. Mantle and pull up to the super cool, overhanging arete (12c/d from mantle). |
|