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Dogwood Crag
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A Modest Man from Mandrake 
Ain't no Party, Ain't no Disco 
Cross-Eyed and Painless 
Drunken Crack 
Haven't A Clue 
Hidden Falls 
Hyper-Gamma Spaces 
I Think I'm Going Bald 
Life During Wartime 
Lion of Zion, The 
Little Creatures 
Little Critters 
On the Skids 
Take Me To The River 
Unforgiven 
Unknown west of Mandrake 
Unknown west of Take Me to the River 

Cross-Eyed and Painless 

5.13a

   
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FA: Stuart Ruckman & Gordon Douglas (1989)
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.13a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 224 page views

Submitted By: Cory Heintz on Jul 12, 2009


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BETA PHOTO: Cross-Eyed and Painless Arete


Description 

Tread up this prominent arete located on the eastern end of the Dogwood Crag. Approach via river crossing is certainly the quickest/ easiest access. Route is protected by 8 bolts, but is essentially divided into two sections. The bottom 2 bolts feature a hard bouldering style sequence which earn its 5.13 rating, where the upper section, though steep, eases up with a 12d finish.


Protection 

8 bolts; chains; upper section typically includes fixed gear.



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By tenesmus
Jul 12, 2009

Is it true that the original start is on the right side of the arete? Some guys climb the faint crack just left of the arete to start.

But starting on the polished jugs for This Aint No Party is more fun than either, with the rest of the climb at .12d? If you're like me and want to work this but haven't redpointed, going left is a lot less taxing if you still need to figure out the rest.

By Boissal
From: UT
Jul 13, 2009

Sent? Super proud considering the grease factor. Congratulations!!

By Cory Heintz
From: Salt Lake City
Jul 14, 2009

Grease factor, no joke! Why is the Dogwood Crag so polished? It doesn't seem like any other rock in BCC has such a slick texture.

By Todd H
Jul 19, 2009

If you want to see the moves you can check out