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Dogwood Crag
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Cross-Eyed and Painless 
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Cross-Eyed and Painless 

5.13a

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Consensus: 5.13a [details]
FA: Stuart Ruckman & Gordon Douglas (1989)
Submitted By: Cory Heintz on Jul 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Prominent arete at eastern-end of the Dogwood Crag. Stiff crimpy climbing down low; steep with big moves up top.


Protection 

8 bolts, chains.



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By Jonathan Vickers
May 2, 2013

CONDITION REPORT 

I had upgraded some of the older fixed nylon and aluminum to stainless cables and biners only to come back and find them stolen. My thought was that if anything is going to be fixed on a classic line like this it should be stainless. If you happened to take those draws for an ethical reason please contact me so I can get my draws back and for a civil discussion. If you removed them for any other reason please return them to Crosseyed and Painless for future climbers.

By tenesmus
Jul 12, 2009

Is it true that the original start is on the right side of the arete? Some guys climb the faint crack just left of the arete to start.

But starting on the polished jugs for This Aint No Party is more fun than either, with the rest of the climb at .12d? If you're like me and want to work this but haven't redpointed, going left is a lot less taxing if you still need to figure out the rest.

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 13, 2009

Sent? Super proud considering the grease factor. Congratulations!!

By Bart Ridd
From: SLC, UT
Nov 6, 2010

Tried this climb this morning, damn hard! But fun! Definitely rated correctly.

By John Martin
From: Kearns, UT
Jun 28, 2011

By DTM
Sep 9, 2011

First two bolts (just right of the arete)involve a V7ish boulder problem. Mantle and pull up to the super cool, overhanging arete (12c/d from mantle).