This route shares its start with Neon Leon: scamper up a low angle slab and mantle the stacked blocks, carefully avoiding a large pile of guano and trying not to dent your head.
Clip the first two bolts (the 2nd one is a ways to the left of the line, don't get dragged too far that way) and head up and right following an obvious line of crimps and sidepulls. Around the 4th bolt the holds dwindle, forcing you to reach left for the arete and a series of sidepulls. A touchy moves brings you back on the face and the 5th bolt, then some decent edges to the left put you within clipping distance of the chains.
Looks like you could go straight up from the 5th bolt to the anchor using a slopy edge to stand into a shallow undercling (!!), a sequence that looked way harder than .11d and that you might be too pumped to consider...
What keeps you off the deck:
5 bolts, the first 2 shared with Neon Leon and Speed Trap. A long draw on the 1st bolt will let the rope run fairly straight. Bolt 3 is a spinner but looks fairly decent still. Chain anchors at the top.
RSS Feed
