Approach: Follow the standard approach to the Millstone climbing area. Take the trail towards Lake Blanch, following the pavement trail out of the parking lot, then the dirt trail up Mill B South. Instead of crossing the creek, take the well worn trail which stays on the west side of the drainage. This trail eventually leads to the large talus cone coming down from the Millstone climbing area. Follow the talus up, until just below the bottom of the steep, east facing rock climbing area (50-80 foot vertical wall). Cross over towards the base of the steep wall, and, short break in the wall should be visible. Climb over this, onto the low angle, well featured slab, and, either cross over and climb onto the main slab (about 200 feet above the very bottom of the slab), or, carefully down climb the narrow slab (short 3 to 5 foot east facing wall on the narrow slab’s right side) to the bottom and cross over to the main, unbroken slab for the full meal deal. Pick a line up the smooth slab, start up. Voila.
Compared to the West Slabs of Mount Olympus and the Mineral Slab, this is sustained lower angle, but, much less featured and fairly polished in most locations. My guess is the angle is from around 30 to 45 degrees is all, but, the rock in most places is smooth and slick. Good route finding required to piece together a reasonable, safe route. Not much loose rock. The wall “rolls” like a wave in places, where it gets low angle enough to traverse or walk, and, high angle enough to get “interesting”. Traversing off if weather or conditions change may be somewhat difficult in the first half or two-thirds of the slab.
The slab gains about 700 feet of vertical and the ridge above can be followed to a nice high point yielding fine views of the Sundial and the upper Mill B South drainage.
Descent: follow social/game trails down and eventually hook up with the Broad’s Fork trail.
Location
The Millstone Slab is located on the west side of the Mill B South drainage, and is the very large slab forming the west side of the steep, east facing rock climbing area.
Protection
If using a rope, take a standard rack of gear including a set of stoppers, micro cams up through a #3 Camalot (or equivalent). There will be the potential for very hefty run outs depending on the line chosen. At best, expect to climb 60 or more feet without protection in places on the smooth, nearly featureless face. Angling back and forth might help connect discontinuities.
Long, consistent, and secluded warrants 2 stars for this slab in my opinion. I climbed directly up the middle following obvious seams in the rock. The climbing is low 5th class, and it's incredibly consistent for the entire 700 vertical feet. The exposure is beautiful. Two hours round trip from the car.
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