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Left Arete of Padded Cell 

5.7+

   

FA: Unknown
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.7+ [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 160 feet
Views: 207 page views

Submitted By: Craig Martin on May 31, 2009


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Left Arete of Padded Cell.


Description 

This is another of the many undocumented climbs established around the Storm Mountain Island area. It is a variation to Encore's second pitch, or can be climbed in 1 pitch from the ground starting on Encore or The Flake. It is kind of a strange climb. Which side of the arete do you climb on? Right side seems fairly hard and contrived, while the left side is quite easy but the bolts are positioned in a way that your rope keeps getting hung up on the sharp edge of the heavily featured arete. Either way, climb up the slab clipping a couple bolts until the wall steepens then decide which way to go. I climbed the left side, if you go this way the crux is on the slab around the second bolt.


Location 

This climb ascends the arete located to the right of The Flake and to the left of Padded Cell(Ruckman guidebook).


Protection 

Mostly bolts(10 I think), some gear may be heplful for those at their limit, but not really needed. Rappel from Padded Cell anchor or walk off.



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By Jonathan Scoville
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 8, 2009

I climbed this in one pitch, but the rope drag was a bit of a problem. There is one run-out section that could be protected with gear, but it is probably 5.4 or easier. I would definitely make sure that your second follows you up and cleans the draws - it would be very hard to clean on rappel. I tried to stay right of the arete as much as possible, but found it necessary to do moves centered on the arete or slightly to the left. The left side is a nice place to hang out for a while when you get tired.