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Glasnost 

5.8+ R

   

FA: Bret Ruckman, Fred Thalmann, 1990
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 130 feet
Views: 164 page views

Submitted By: Tristan Higbee on May 28, 2009


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Me on Glasnost. Great route!


Description 

Great, long pitch that goes up the center of the Sea of Glass wall. Start in a seam that trends slightly left. It opens up in places and you can get some good gear in from time to time. End at a three-bolt belay located just left of a large bush.

Note: I think the Ruckmans goofed in their guide. On the photo topo they've got it right. But I think the description is off. The written description for "Sea of Glass" (5.9+) is actually the description of the route Glasnost. And from what I saw of the cliff, Sea of Glass is 25 feet left of Glasnost and not the other way around.


Location 

In the middle of the wall. It's the obvious left-leaning seam-that-turns-into-a-crack that is to the right of the glassiest part of the wall.


Protection 

Micro nuts, a set of regular nuts, micro cams, regular cams to number 3 Camalot.



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By Tristan Higbee
From: Provo, Utah
May 28, 2009

This thing is barely R-rated, in my opinion. Yeah there are a couple long runouts but the gear you do have is pretty bomber. This is a really cool route. I don't think it gets done very often... There were all sorts of cobwebs on the holds. I gave it three stars because I love moderate runout routes. Your mileage my vary. The 5.9+ to the left looks rad. Next time.

And thanks for whoever it was (I'm guessing James) that put in the bomber anchor.

By Christian Knight
From: Provo, UT
May 29, 2009

I think this might have been R back before C3's were invented, now it's just a super fun 5.8