Very steep and juggy, with two roofs to pull at the top. On lead, failing to clip the bolts atop the roofs could prang you into the jagged rocks below. The route actually moves left of the final roof, then right to the anchors. This route shares anchors with Clean Underwear (5.9) immediately to its east. So you could lead Clean Underwear first if you'd prefer to toprope, but be advised: the toprope will tend to yank you right, off route.
Is there supposed to be a bolt in between #3 and #4? That is a pretty big fall (possible grounder) and considering how well everything else is bolted... it seems like one belongs there. Also, above #3 do u head straight up the bulge or hang right or left? Straight up seemed harder than 10a but going right or left seems off route.
By Rebecca Airmet From: Salt Lake City, UT Sep 5, 2005 rating: 5.10a
If you plan on top-roping this, consider clipping the bolts on rappel to avoid the swing to the right. This will also allow you to actually get back on the route if you pop off. There are also now two sets of anchors at the top, one each for this and Clean Underwear, right next to each other.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Apr 25, 2006 rating: 5.10a PG13
Good route. Fits right in to the area. Looking up at the distance between bolt 3 & 4, I felt there must be another bolt. However, when you get there and realize there isn't, it isn't that big of a deal as it pretty easy climbing.
By Shaun Greene From: www.UtahShaun.com Oct 7, 2008 rating: 5.10a
Strange bolt placements. Use long Runners through the crux.
By Boissal From: SLC, UT Oct 7, 2008 rating: 5.10a
Steep and fun 10a. Definitely feels a bit runout between the 3rd and 4th bolt, but it's on easy ground. Don't fall, and if you're grabbing a bad hold you're probably missing a jug nearby. The traverse under the roof heading right is weird, the really low hands force you to arch backward if you don't want to rub your face on the rock. Interesting moves.
S-Curve - Upper Wall
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