Named to commemorate a large block that cut a new 70 meter rope as the route was being cleaned. If the first pitch of Old Habits Die Hard is climbed rather than the first pitch described here (both end at the same belay), Cost of Business may warrant three stars.
The first pitch (5.7) starts by working up a gully to a large right-facing corner with a bush at its base. The bush can be avoided by climbing a short, small corner to the right, and stepping back left to the larger corner above the bush. As of this writing, there is a rusty soft iron pin that, if solid, would protect the step left. (As hinted, the pin is loose, although it wouldn’t come out by hand). Climb the corner for maybe 40 feet, until possible to traverse left and up, past another corner system, to a third corner system, staying above (and out of) some more bushes. Move up this third corner system, using the prow on the left, until under a roof. Belay from gear (uses at least one 3.5-4 inch cam) and a small foot ledge under the roof.
The second pitch jams and laybacks out the roof-crack (5.9) just right of the stance. Easy ground above the roof leads to a ledge and a second roof. After pulling the second roof, step left around the buttress back onto the face and climb near the buttress to the top (it is possible on the face to clip a bolt or two on Mystery, but the climbing is easy enough that it’s likely not necessary). Belay from Mystery’s anchors.
See the photo-topo on the post for Starstruck.
Location
On the northwest face of Stone Crag, maybe 150 feet right of the pine tree at the base of Le Rap et Tap and Wealth of Nations, above the unappetizing dark shale bands that prevents direct access to the northwest face. Approach by walking the trail to Narcolepsy, but continue into the scree and boulder gully to the east. Walk up the gully, staying on its left side, until possible to catch a ledge system with a trail that traverses left above the dark shale bands (approach time: 10-15 minutes from the road). As of September 2008, the start of the ledge was marked with cairns. Walk across the ledge (passing Starstruck) to where the trail begins to slope down. The first pitch begins directly above this point.
Protection
Standard trad rack; include at least one 3.5-4 inch cam for the belay atop the first pitch. Can make one long rappel (two 60 meter ropes) or two rappels (stopping at a two-bolt hanging stance about halfway down) to get back to the ledge system.
Strone Crag
RSS Feed
