This route was stumbled upon when we set out to climb the striking dihedral of Old Habits Die Hard. I’ve been unable to find anything about it on the web or from a few long-in-the-tooth locals I’ve talked to, which is surprising because the second pitch is great, albeit a bit contrived. I’ve taken the liberty of calling it Mystery, rather than posting it as yet another “Unknown.” I’d be happy to the turn the reins of this post over to the FA party if they step forward.
The first pitch (5.9) begins about 50 feet left of the Old Habits dihedral, in a large, bush and tree-infested corner. This somewhat ugly pitch can be easily avoided by doing the first pitch of Old Habits, which is easier but more enjoyable. For Mystery, bushwhack through the vegetation and 4th class up the corner for 60 feet until possible to move right to a Lego-like face protected by two bolts. Gingerly work up the face (some of the Legos are loose) to a two-bolt hanging stance. Rather than belaying at the hanging stance, a more comfortable belay can be established to the right from a small footstance at the base of the roof (requires at least one 3.5-4 inch cam); this is also the belay for Old Habits and Cost of Business.
The money pitch begins by turning the roof just left of the hanging stance. Avoiding the Old Habits dihedral to the left, climb past 5 bolts to a ledge, then past 3 more to the top and anchors. The crux comes at the 4th bolt, and varies by a letter grade or two depending on whether you stay “in-line” (if in-line, I’d say 11c). You’ll probably want to place gear to protect the move over the roof and between the last 3 bolts.
Location
On the northwest face of Stone Crag, maybe 100 feet right of the pine tree at the base of Le Rap et Tap and Wealth of Nations, above the unappetizing dark shale bands that prevents direct access to the northwest face. Approach by walking the trail to Narcolepsy, but continue into the scree and boulder gully to the east. Walk up the gully, staying on its left side, until possible to catch a ledge system with a trail that traverses left above the dark shale bands (approach time: 10-15 minutes from the road). As of September 2008, the start of the ledge was marked with cairns. Walk across the ledge (passing Starstruck, Cost of Business, and Old Habits Die Hard) and continue on the trail where the ledge slopes down to its lowest and narrowest point. Above is the large, bush and tree infested corner leading to the first pitch.
Protection
Draws and gear to 1.5 inches; take a 3.5-4 inch cam for the Old Habits belay. Can make one long rappel (two 60 meter ropes) or two rappels (stopping at the hanging stance) to get back to the ledge system.
Strone Crag
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