Starstruck 

FA:  J. Steiger, J. Saviers-Steiger, Sept. 27, 2008 New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.8 [details] Length:  3 pitches, 220 feet Views: 81 page views Submitted By: John Steiger on Oct 5, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: The northwest face of Stone Crag. Marked are Star...

Description 

Starstruck takes a line just below the right shoulder of the northwest face of Stone Crag, taking in some beautiful formations and providing good position. Maybe not a full three stars now, but it should be after several more ascents.

The first pitch begins by climbing a short slab that is just above the start of the ledge system cutting across the base of Stone Crag’s northwest face (see Location). A cam in a horizontal pod and micronuts in a seam protect the slab adequately. Continue up the crack systems above the slab to a ledge and take a short, sweet left-facing corner to another ledge system. Walk left to a bolt and belay from it and gear. (90 feet).

Pitch two starts by stepping left from the bolt onto the face. Climb thin cracks until possible to move left into a hanging dihedral. Continue up the dihedral to another ledge and belay from gear. (80 feet).

The last pitch works up the obvious crack above the stance and over a small roof. Once over the roof, move left around the corner and face climb to the top and a two-bolt anchor. (50 feet). The last two pitches can be easily combined.

Location 

On the northwest face of Stone Crag, maybe 200 feet right of the pine tree at the base of Le Rap et Tap and Wealth of Nations, above the unappetizing dark shale bands that prevent direct access to the northwest face. Approach by walking the trail to Narcolepsy, but continue into the scree and boulder gully to the west. Walk up the gully, staying on its left side, until possible to catch a ledge system traversing left above the dark shale bands (approach: 10-15 minutes from the road). As of September 2008, the start of the ledge system was marked with cairns. Starstruck begins on the obvious slab above the right-end of the ledge system.

Protection 

Standard trad rack supplemented by a set of micronuts (for the first pitch slab). Can make one long rappel from the two-bolt anchor atop the route (two 60 meter ropes), or two rappels stopping at a two-bolt hanging stance halfway down (not recommended). Both get you to the ledge system from which the climb begins.

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BETA PHOTO: Janie on the first pitch during the FA.	Second pitch.	To the top.