Captain Jack climbs the two-tiered arete right of Six Pence in two pitches. The first pitch climbs either on or slightly left of the lower arete, protected by gear and two bolts, until it slopes back and a belay can be established on a fairly decent ledge from nuts and cams. The pitch starts about 15 feet right of the base of Six Pence, either by climbing the smooth face left of the arete or the arete proper. The second pitch traverses left to gain the upper arete, then climbs the rib past a bolt to the top, avoiding the ugly chimney/gully to the left.
A better second pitch -- which elevates this climb to two stars -- ascends the face right of the upper arete past 5 bolts. It is possible to do this alternative and the first pitch of Captain Jack in one rope-length (a 60m rope may be necessary). This 5-bolt line was established by an unknown party before the FA of Captain Jack (and hence the bolt line may have its own name; speak up if you know).
Location
To the right of Six Pence is a large, dark chimney/gully. Captain Jack climbs the somewhat low-angle arete to the right of the chimney/gully. The easiest way to find Six Pence and Captain Jack is to go to the upper left end of the amphitheater and walk left along the base up a scree slope to its top, above which the bolts on Six Pence are obvious.
Protection
Standard trad rack. The majority of the protection is in horizontal cracks (some ingenuity may be necessary). Gear belays. The 2 bolts on the lower arete and the bolt on the upper arete were added after the FA. Walk off the top to the right.
Storm Mountain Island
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