Pitch 1: Locate the first bolt about 20' up from the base of the chimney/gully. Climb up past 9 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor, clip the anchor and climb up through a steeper juggy crack. Follow the weakness to the top and a 2 bolt anchor. This is a pretty fun line, with the crux getting to the first bolt, and mostly cruiser climbing after it. Good candidate for someones first trad lead.
Descent: Rappel the route with one rope.
Location
This is located on the E face of the Talk Buttress. Best approach is from the base of the The Dead Snag, and a short hike up the next gully to the west until it ends in a chimney/gully. It also can be approached from the Talk Buttress proper with a downclimb of the chimney below the start of Look Who's Talking.
Protection
A bunch of slings/QDs, and a small rack of nuts and cams to 2".
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Jul 10, 2009 rating: 5.7
Requires two rappels to get off if you're rappelling back down to the base of the route.
Also makes a nice 100 foot sport route as the first fixed anchor is at 100 feet.
I wonder who put this up and when? Well painted chain and bolt hangers. Nice hardware, well placed. Washer stacked anchors have gone the way of the dodo though...
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