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Talk Buttress
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Baby Talk 
Look Who's Talking 
Notalotatalk 
Over Easy 
Talkin' Them Broken Foot Blues AKA Talkin' Smack 
Talking Tough 

Over Easy 

5.7

   

FA: ??? 2003?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 180 feet
Views: 193 page views

Submitted By: Craig Martin on Jun 10, 2008


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Description 

Pitch 1: Locate the first bolt about 20' up from the base of the chimney/gully. Climb up past 9 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor, clip the anchor and climb up through a steeper juggy crack. Follow the weakness to the top and a 2 bolt anchor. This is a pretty fun line, with the crux getting to the first bolt, and mostly cruiser climbing after it. Good candidate for someones first trad lead.

Descent: Rappel the route with one rope.


Location 

This is located on the E face of the Talk Buttress. Best approach is from the base of the The Dead Snag, and a short hike up the next gully to the west until it ends in a chimney/gully. It also can be approached from the Talk Buttress proper with a downclimb of the chimney below the start of Look Who's Talking.


Protection 

A bunch of slings/QDs, and a small rack of nuts and cams to 2".



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By Brian in SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 10, 2009
rating: 5.7

Requires two rappels to get off if you're rappelling back down to the base of the route.

Also makes a nice 100 foot sport route as the first fixed anchor is at 100 feet.

I wonder who put this up and when? Well painted chain and bolt hangers. Nice hardware, well placed. Washer stacked anchors have gone the way of the dodo though...

By James Garrett
Jul 10, 2009

Stevo Habovstack. Is it really only 5.7? Man, you honed dudes are getting hard core!

By James Garrett
Jul 11, 2009

I stand corrected...thought you were referring to "The Big Easy".

By Craig Martin
From: Park City, UT
Jul 11, 2009

FA Randy Kieliszewski?? 2003??