Worthwhile addition to the area circuit. Begin on typical quartzite past 3 bolts, then travel through some fractured lower angled rock to the upper smooth and steep shield. Careful about clipping bolt#6 as a fall with slack out could land you on the sloping ramp below. Pull the powerful final moves to the mantel/highstep and bolt#7. The TR anchors are a little hard to see (to the right) until you are on them (TR Variation is 5.9). Use 2-ft runners for best results!
Full Value Variation (5.11-) continues up to the left from bolt#7, past 4 more closely spaced clips through some steeper terrain to an awesome belay nook/ledge. Pitch 2 travels up low angle corner to loose step and gully before the final overhanging arete. 5 bolts worth of heel-hooking, knee bars, and laybacks up the steep but juggy arete see you to the top ledge and glue-in rap anchor (Or, it is enticing to climb easier terrain to the left of the arete and make reachy, blind clips to the right ~.8/.9 ish).
FYI: fun top-rope variation (Worthy Weakness, also 5.9) climbs the steeper/blocky arete about 6-ft. left of p1 to great move through roof to crack (this hasn't really been cleaned too well so...)
Location
10 ft. to the right (north) of 'Daily Diatribe' 30 ft. to the left (south) of 'Coral Bells Arete'
Protection
TR variation = 7 bolts to 2 chain anchor (on right) Full Value variation = p1: 11 bolts to 2 bolt anchor p2: 6 bolts to glue-ins and rap anchor
By Ryan Brough From: Arvada, Colorado Aug 1, 2007 rating: 5.9
The crux clips were placed weird for me. Felt just as hard as Hollow Man. The start is dicey, so a moderate leader may want a crash pad or a stick clip. Good rock and some good exposure.
By icsteveoh From: salt lake city, UT Aug 2, 2007 rating: 5.9
Hey glen if we climbed this august 1's would talia and i have the 9th ascent? :) Definitely hard climbing at the first two bolts and then getting to the last one. I climbed it again on toprope and still felt like it had some 5.9 moves on it.
I agree, I even got scared getting to the first bolt clip and backed off and took the TR! This is most definitely NOT a route for the beginning 5.8 or 5.9 leader...sorry, Glen. Why rap drilled routes have to be bold, daring, and dangerous is beyond me. We should all be inspired by the moderate master guru of the 60 footers...Gregorio Martinez....now, he knows how to bolt a 5.8 route!
I just have to weigh in with the comments of 5.8 and 5.9 being a "beginner" route. 5.9 used to be it, add a plus if you knew it was really hard or funky. I don't see a point of putting a bolt too low either, unless you plan on stepping on it to get up to the "real" clip. Stick clip it if you need to, but what's the point of having a low clip that won't keep you from hitting the ground? ie. Dog Pile or Winkey & Waxman.
Now I feel like a real gumby, but Glen did reposition the lower bolts and added another one. I for one think it is all for the better? No need for a stick clip DoubleD.
I've looked at this every time I've been in the area and wondered when someone would equip this. This route is a lot of fun and much more sustained than MEGA. Well engineered me thinks.
Glen's concern about the Red tag was completely ignored....it's all good. This area gets so much traffic, I am sure it was repeated innocently enough. I repeated both pitches on Whoopsie today and it felt pretty solid, but rapping the line takes you into the gully on the right (north) and this is quite loose in places. The first pitch is excellent and has been extended to a two bolt belay further up the arete. Then the second pitch gets even better and climbs the hard side of the arete (5.11a we think) to another two bolt belay on a great ledge. Glen and I have not been able to properly trundle the loose rocks in the gully as so many people climb here on a seemingly regular basis. This was Glen's project and find from the beginning and I thank him for bringing me on board, especially to be able to add this second pitch....pretty rare and pretty cool in BCC at Challenge Buttress.
So, I guess my message is...please wear a helmet here until it cleans up more and especially just walking around the base of the cliff...as people rappelling or lowering off Whoopsie or Mega may knoock some stuff off....we would hate to see or hear about somebody getting beaned. Thanks!
By glen kaplan From: Salt Lake City, UT Sep 18, 2007
Done is done...although there are still too many lurkers on or near the 2nd pitch for comfort...I will just have to make it up there at night or hopefully mid-week (there are people there every time I go...)
2nd pitch is great but it is certainly contrived...oh well...the harder moves are definitely in the e.z. .11 range and require committment to keeping it hard (i.e. it is real easy to just hike up left, over the arete and onto much easier terrain...)
James and I thought this was the best compromise as one could still (kinda) lead the route the easy way, via the low angle arete (left side) or follow the harder way (overhanging right side)...either way gives some unique moves and exposure and we only needed to bolt one line, not two that were real close together... plus the belay ledges are sweet...
The rappel is pretty good but you need to be careful about looseness in gully...still.
Only did the TR variation, but definitely a good addition to the area. Fun route that grabs your attention right away and keeps you thinking the whole time. Good stuff.
I did this climb the other day with the standard challenge buttress circuit. The first pitch is worthy, but the second pitch really forces the strength of the line. It looks cool, but is very contrived.