BETA PHOTO: This is a rough sketch of the Leisure route in fro...
Description
This route offers one long and clean slab pitch and one steeper pitch. Many old routes have been done on this wall, but this is the first to go directly up the guts of the storm mtn cliff.
PITCH ONE: Once the first bolt is located in the gully, follow five bolts, pass a two bolt (sub anchor),then pass one more bolt to another bolted belay with black webbing. Expect runouts between easy climbing.
PITCH TWO: angle up and left past a painted and really hidden bolt (12' up from the belay), a fixed knifeblade, then climb under the triangle roof. Place some cams then climb up and left towards four bolts on the edge of an arete. After the bolts enjoy easy climbing up beautiful stopper cracks to a two bolt anchor. There is a mystery anchor at the rim of the top of the pitch. This may be for the ice route in the winter. The anchor for the Leisure route is up and right from this old anchor.
Location
Walk up the gully to the left of the storm mtn falls. Look for a bolt about 20' up from the gully. To descend, rap a single rope into the void and walk the slab to get back to the second pitch anchor. From here, rap to the sub anchor, then down. If you bring two ropes, you can skip the sub anchor. TIE KNOTS IN THE END OF THE ROPE WHEN DROPPING THE FIRST RAPPEL
Protection
quickdraws, a few slings, one #1 camalot, one #2 camalot, one #3 camalot. One set of BD nuts,helmets. All belays are bolted.
Really cool route with even better exposure. Troy equipped this thing on lead, rope solo and invited me along for the FFA the next day. When you are climbing it think about drilling and pounding in powers bolts with one hand, kudos! Thanks buddy it should become a popular route!
TP
It was cool to climb it when the last of the ice is melting around you, it wasn't big stuff, big,big ice cubes at best, but it made for a interesting experience, felt all Alpine while I could still see the road :)
Very nice line. I agree, it should become a popular route. Great position on the second pitch. Some climbers may want additional gear beyond what is mentioned in the description. I used a yellow TCU and a .75 Camalot on the first pitch to supplement the bolts.
Its about time that someone in the great and mighty Wasatch see that there are great routes to be had off the beaten path. Wonderful gem and I hope it gains respect.
Sorry Stevie...I really wanted to like this climb and expected to do so. It just didn't seem to be a 5.8 climb for 5.8 leaders like myself, I guess? I was coming off an injury, but I was seconding! What is with all the anchors all over the place up there? Nice climbing, though and nice movement. good find. 5.8R/almostX?
Luke, you hit it head on regarding my "vision" for this route. I wanted to keep it as old school as possible. Its great to climb easy terrain yet be concerned for your life. The only section of this route that could be dangerous is the easy 5.6 at the bottom. The Leisure route will keep people on their toes and possibly able them for adventures in the desert. A definate must do.
James, Thanks for your comment on this rad route. Please go back when you aren't coming back from an injury. From what climbing I've seen you do, leads me to believe you'll send easily and really enjoy it.
Storm Mountain Ice Falls
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