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Sweet and Low 

5.5

   

FA: Sarah Taylor
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.5 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 735 page views

Submitted By: Peter Gram on Sep 11, 2004


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BETA PHOTO: Rope going up Unknown on Challenge Buttress


Description 

This climb starts just a few feet right of Birth Simulator, on the wall opposing the Chambered Nautilus. Jug hauling past shiny new bolts gets you to the top.


Protection 

bolts (6 or 7?) + 2 bolt anchor.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 17, 2008
By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 11, 2004

Anybody know anything about this route? My guess is that the rating is 5.4 or 5.5. Fun route.

By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Sep 16, 2004
rating: 5.4

There is no way any of this feels like 5.7 - difficulty is nowhere near as hard as any of the 5.6 sport routes at Salt Lake Slips or Storm Mountain Island. 5.4 or maybe 5.5 feels about right.

Definitely agree that you could deck clipping the second bolt and that it probably should be a bit lower with an additional bolt above it. However, I can't imagine how you could fall while clipping it. Maybe not a great first lead, but a fine 4th or 5th lead.

I'll give it two stars because I can't think of a better sport route this easy in BCC.

By Lee Gitlin
Sep 16, 2004
rating: 5.5

The route is also a bit dirty toward the top, with a bush in the bolt line, which is why we gave it only one star.

By Nathan Fisher
Administrator
Oct 7, 2004
rating: 5.6

Not a 5.5, not a 5.7. How about 5.6. Anyway, it seemed to me to be a very squeezed route, that close to the crack (Birth Simulator). Very positive edges almost the entire way. It felt like 5.5 most of the way with a bit of 5.6 near the 3rd bolt. A great route for young ones and other beginners.

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 9, 2005

I am the first to claim "squeeze job" normally, but since the birth simulator is a total crap pile that doesn't see any action anyway, this is probably not that bad. However...that being said, this is at most a 5.5/5.6. WAY easier than six apeal, or some other bolted 5.6's in the canyon. 5.5 at best, 5.7?? are you serious? were you intentionally skipping the jugs? What is sad is that someone spent some money equipping this silly thing, and coral bells (a classic and stiff for the grade!) is in serious need of a retro fit. Go figure.

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 13, 2005

After sketching out a bit after the third bolt on Coral Bells, I jumped on this one as a little confidence builder, and found it to be a bit lacking in that due to the ease of the route......I understand 4th class and I understand 5.6....everything in between is kinda a blur, and that fell into the easier part of this blur for me....much easier than Six Appeal...easier than Italian, easier than Roll the Bones.....and comparing it to other nearby 5.6 offereings, there is no question.....Schoolroom?? Steort's?? Jig's up?? I headed up to Touch of Teflon to get my mojo back.

By Lee Gitlin
Aug 31, 2006
rating: 5.5

Okay, fair enough. Reclimbed this route, and several other 5.6-5.7's and I must revise my rating. 5.5 seems more correct. The route is WAY easier than Becky's (5.7) and easier than the crux moves on Steort's. I maintain that missing the second clip could result in deckfall, regardless of how easy the route may be. Be aware, fledling leaders, and be careful.

Prior ratings revised accordingly. Beta not edited.

By Michael MacFadden
Aug 25, 2007
rating: 5.5

Feels like a 5.5 for sure. If you stay to the right of the bolts its like walking up stairs. This would be a good first lead for a new leader.

By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 12, 2007
rating: 5.5

I've actually climbed Birth Simulator...and it is a bit harder not to mention dirty as hell from never getting done and a gear climb in an area that is mainly 'sport'...I think this route is 5.5 at most...

Since no one is suggesting names, and I hate people confusing it with Birth Simulator (which is an entirely different route)...why not call it Birth Stimulator or Earth Simulator or some such?

In the end...I guess "that easy climb to the right of Birth Simulator" is good enough to communicate what and where you mean :)

Nobody knows who put this one up, eh? It's really, really popular!

By Tea
Oct 1, 2007

5.5 at best.

By tytonic
From: San Dimas, CA
Dec 3, 2007

I've done this route a couple of times over the summer, and I'd have to say it's a little harder than the staircase at the mall. Since the easiest thing I've climbed is a 5.6, I can't give an accurate rating, but this is way easier than any local 5.6 sport route I've done. It's a good route if you are taking someone out for a first time climbing experience. I'm sure the easy climbing and easy access are the major factors contributing to its popularity.

By Gary Taylor
May 7, 2008

The name of this route is Sweet and Low. FA fall 2004 by Sarah Taylor (age 17).

By cdec
From: SLC and Moab, ut
May 17, 2008
rating: 5.4

Certainly easy and well protected. A wonderful beginner lead on quailty rock. My 5 yr. old daughter Emma brownsited it. She said "the most fun thing I've ever done."