By Nathan Fisher Administrator Jun 5, 2007 rating: 5.11d
A BD #8 or a yellow Metolius will protect the initial moves. If this route is a 5.11b then Winky and Waxman is like a 5.10b. This is considerably harder than I expected, but I wasn't climbing real well. The line seemed a bit contrived as well. Not a bad line, just not anything special.
I definitely agree, much harder than winky and waxman. Some fun moves in between the 2nd and 3rd bolt...but be careful, the 3rd bolt is sketchy
By Colby Wayment From: Ogden, UT Mar 26, 2008 rating: 5.11b
Agreed. This is more difficult than W&W. But that's because W&W is only 10b. This is what a quartzite 11b feels like.
By Tyler King From: Salt Lake, UT Aug 19, 2008 rating: 5.11b
Yes, harder than Waxman, but no, W&W is not a 10b! But, yes W&W is soft for 11b. DR is not too bad if you know the beta. If you don't know the sequence it will be MUCH harder. My climbing partner fought at the first move. After we figured out the beta he went again and was amazed how much easier it was than he had thought.
Great reachy moves! Don't miss this climb if you are in the area. It is very consistent through the whole climb. Think of it as a bolted boulder problem.