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Diminishing Returns 

5.11b

   

FA: Stuart Ruckman and Gordon Douglas 1987
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11 [details]
Length: 50 feet
Views: 415 page views

Submitted By: John Bradford on Apr 1, 2005


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Description 

A short and difficult route. Sometimes you just have to go for it.


Protection 

A small TCU helps protect the opening moves. Otherwise 3 bolts to anchors


Location 

The bolted route right of Winky and Waxman Go Bolting and a bit up the talus. It climbs a pillar-like chunk of quartzite.



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By Nathan Fisher
Administrator
Jun 5, 2007
rating: 5.11d

A BD #8 or a yellow Metolius will protect the initial moves. If this route is a 5.11b then Winky and Waxman is like a 5.10b. This is considerably harder than I expected, but I wasn't climbing real well. The line seemed a bit contrived as well. Not a bad line, just not anything special.

By Tim Jones
From: Salt Lake City
Jan 28, 2008

I definitely agree, much harder than winky and waxman. Some fun moves in between the 2nd and 3rd bolt...but be careful, the 3rd bolt is sketchy

By Colby Wayment
From: Ogden, UT
Mar 26, 2008
rating: 5.11b

Agreed. This is more difficult than W&W. But that's because W&W is only 10b. This is what a quartzite 11b feels like.

By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Aug 19, 2008
rating: 5.11b

Yes, harder than Waxman, but no, W&W is not a 10b! But, yes W&W is soft for 11b. DR is not too bad if you know the beta. If you don't know the sequence it will be MUCH harder. My climbing partner fought at the first move. After we figured out the beta he went again and was amazed how much easier it was than he had thought.

Great reachy moves! Don't miss this climb if you are in the area. It is very consistent through the whole climb. Think of it as a bolted boulder problem.