This bolted, moderate line adds some variety and choice to the few well-protected and very well-traveled routes on this popular wall. Somewhat squeezed between Italian Arete and Forgotten Ambition, it is a standalone route independent from its neighbors.
Pitch #1: To the left of the main cleft or dihedral which is to the left of the popular Italian Arete, climb up a slight spur of rock passing two small roofs on mostly big, climber-friendly holds. Continue to the top of the wall to a two-bolt belay. 5.7.
Very much moss, lichen, and small bushes were cleaned off this face. Traffic will clean it up even more. This is a long pitch; if it is really desired to top rope with a 60m rope, a further option would be to partially climb Maudlin only until the leader is even with the chained anchors to the right (Italian Arete/Entre Nous), then traverse on a very easy good ledge and lower from those anchors.
Another method for top roping long pitches is simply to tie another rope on. This is common practice in places like Indian Creek where most of the routes are longer than 35m, yet are frequently top roped as is the norm in sport climbing areas. Recommended to have two belay methods in play while passing the knot, when belaying.
Also, maybe this is a no brainer (and I am not trying to be condescending here), but the second rope needs to be taken up by the leader, lead rope into anchor and knot tied into 2nd cord. While still being held on belay by belayer, leader then rappels single line to ground. It's not rocket science, but I thought I'd explain for those who haven't climbed longer pitches before. Maudlin just might be a good candidate for your first.
Perhaps the name is somewhat derived from my partner's concerns that this route would be controversial. I still don't really know why it would be? Only time will tell.
Location
This is on the East Face of the Salt Lake City Slips. An obvious bolted long line climbs between the Italian Arete and Forgotten Ambition (I think mostly a forgotten route, as well?).
This is a long route....longer than the average sport route in the vicinity and elsewhere in BCC. Descent can be achieved by walking off or by rappelling with a 70m rope (two ropes is probably better). Many of the bolts are glue-in stainless steel, so if you choose to rappel the route with one 50m or one 60m rope x two that would be yet another option.
Protection
12 QDs. If it becomes the consensus that this line is underbolted and the 5.7 leader feels it is "runout" or "scary", I will certainly be amenable to adding bolts, if requested to do so. Comments from the climbing community who already frequent this crag are very welcome. I'd love to hear what you think. Too long?, too few bolts?, too many bolts?, mid-pitch belay?....etc. Thanks. My feeling is that many climbers new to leading the moderate grades outside will love this climb.
Hi James. Pretty fun climbing on this one. The length and bolt placements seemed about right to me. We rapped with a 70m rope and just barely made it with a short easy downclimb. Probably won't work for yo-yoing. Easy enough to get down using one of the many anchors on the big ledge.
As for controversy, doesn't this cross over the top of Forgotten Ambition? Don't really want to stir things up, who climbs Forgotten Ambition anyways? I never have. But I thought it deserved mentioning.
Hi, yea, no worries,....I thought Forgotten Ambition goes right of the final pillar up the right facing dihedral. So the routes cross right below there. What do you think? I knew they intersected twice, (down low and up high) but have convinced myself they are essentially independent of each other....thanks for your comments. I do know that FA is a Forgotten route!!!!
Never having climbed Forgotten Ambition I am not sure how it is effected by the fixed pro on Maudlin. Not sure I really care either. Never got on Forgotten Ambition before, it has been there for years, got on Maudlin within a week of your bolting it. It seems that a route like Maudlin will see a ton of traffic with today's climbers. I will have to climb FA to really have a valid opinion. I think Maudlin is a nice addition, please don't add any more bolts to it.
By icsteveoh From: salt lake city, UT May 18, 2008 rating: 5.7
Oh Glen... Love it! Great way to exit the slips without having to hike up the scree. Solid 5.7 with plenty of bolts. Don't change it. Interesting choice for the anchor gear.
By WasatchChic From: Salt Lake, Utah Aug 6, 2008 rating: 5.7
This is a good addition to the Slips! Still extremely beginner friendly, but nice and long.
Salt Lake Slips
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