This is the obvious, mostly bolted route right at the top of the approach trail. Look for the black streak going up a steep slab with a couple of roofs, the first bolt is 15 feet up but pretty easy to get to. Very fun climbing with a few hard moves at the first bolt and a crux pulling the second roof.
Protection
Mostly bolts. 5 bolts and a few small to medium camming devices or endure 20' runouts on easier terrain. 2 bolt anchor.
Hi Craig, It could be The Leak, but that is in the book so you probably would have recognised it. Call Stevo for the ultimate beta on this area. He put up most of the routes up there.
Craig, Yea, the way things are going, maybe we should stick to the ol' tried and true. Also thanks for the cool write up of < Or Equal To. It's been almost 20 years! since we did that, so you are the much better source for beta and gear. Pin scars? Really? James
By Jared Hargrave From: Salt Lake City, UT. Jul 20, 2009
Not too sure about this, but it seems a bunch of ledges are no longer there at the bottom of this climb. We tried to get on it but couldn't get to the first bolt as there were no features whatsoever.
Looking at the pictures, it seems all of the blocks below the first roof are gone.
Please correct me if I'm wrong as this was my first time at Above and Beyond Wall... But I think this climb has gotten a lot harder with the loss of these boulders.