By James Garrett Nov 16, 2007 rating: 5.10a
| This is good climbing. I think if I had had some Jr. Camalots on my rack besides just the QDs, I probably would have placed them. In other words, don't expect Gregorio Martinez type bolt friendly clipping....especially at the bottom. All in all, it has great protection, though. I loved the movement and the length and going to the top of the crag (or at least pretty close to it where the rock remains surprisingly good). The rock is not perfect as in you can't blindly trust it, but the route and the climbing instills thinking and problem solving, which is just fine with me.
Be a heads up belayer as I grabbed a basketball size hold about mid height, which almost made me a widower. It came off fast and it was close, so it still has some cleaning up to do.
The trail is awesome. A heinous appearing steep slope with tons of great switchbacks and tag lines and landscaping....very pleasant. This route alone makes the approach worth it. We used one rope BTW, and were able to easily connect with another rappel. |