TDA wishing there was a 9" grind fest somewhere in...
Description
The crux is low on this route but by the time you are done climbing it you may have forgotten. One of my favorites on this cliff. Long Live Nirvana. I was obsessed by the idea of "Super Routes" (thank Sharma) when I did this route, a super route for mortals. TP and I did the FA with a lead rope and a tag line so we could both lead it.
Location
This route lies just about the middle of the cliff and makes its way towards the tallest point. 2 ropes needed to get off! A 70 or 80 meter single rope will not get you down! There is the option of rappelling to the anchors at the top of Baked Bean Sandwich and then to the ground. See photo topo.
This is good climbing. I think if I had had some Jr. Camalots on my rack besides just the QDs, I probably would have placed them. In other words, don't expect Gregorio Martinez type bolt friendly clipping....especially at the bottom. All in all, it has great protection, though. I loved the movement and the length and going to the top of the crag (or at least pretty close to it where the rock remains surprisingly good). The rock is not perfect as in you can't blindly trust it, but the route and the climbing instills thinking and problem solving, which is just fine with me.
Be a heads up belayer as I grabbed a basketball size hold about mid height, which almost made me a widower. It came off fast and it was close, so it still has some cleaning up to do.
The trail is awesome. A heinous appearing steep slope with tons of great switchbacks and tag lines and landscaping....very pleasant. This route alone makes the approach worth it. We used one rope BTW, and were able to easily connect with another rappel.
Well bolted. I was perfectly comfy without gear. Great route. Really quite clean now. Another 20 ascents will do it well. Thanks guys for the good fun. I know there was a buttload o'work with this wall.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
