Psychostematic climbs through kind of an ugly looking slot, but the route turns out to be really fun! Belay from the second set of anchors from the left at the base of Psychobabble Wall. Start up a steep crack, then work slightly right up to a huge stance in a pod. From here, pump your way up the corner, finding great jugs on steep terrain straight up to the anchors. Be prepared to do some psycho-stemming to get through the crux!
Protection
One piton, and mostly small to medium gear. Weird two-piece anchor at the top. One rope rappel.
Nice warmup. If you're a 5.9 trad leader with 5.10 aspirations this is a great route for you. The stems keep it from being pumpy and let you take your time with the many nuts and maybe a tcu or two you'll place. You could use a #3 or 4 camalot in the bottom of the flake where this route goes up and right and Psychobabble splits left.
Please note the many anchors up above and you can TR Rebel Yell easily if you do it right.
By glen kaplan From: Salt Lake City, UT Nov 6, 2007 rating: 5.10a
Sooooo sweet...every bit of .10a, I find this feels harder than some .11's in the canyon! Either way, once you get a few runs, it eases up a bit...there are tons of great stems and rests along the way...
Psychobabble Wall
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